Holy Cross and Moni Ipseni Circular Walk
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Wednesday, 3 November 2021
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A circular route through the hills between the Holy Cross church and Moni Ipseni
This walk leads in to the wild yonder to make a circular route between the Holy Cross church and Moni Ipseni. The starting point is in the hills but this specific route is detailed from the nearest transport hub at the village of Lardos. This is a beautiful wander through the hills, exploring the natural history of the island.
Holy Cross and Moni Ipseni Circular Walk - Essential Information
Walk Statistics:
- Start location: Lardos
- Distance: km ( miles)
- Total Gain: metre ( ft)
- Total Descent: metre ( ft)
- Min Height: metre ( ft)
- Max Height: metre ( ft)
- Walk Time:
- Walk type: Circular
- Walk Grade: Easy to navigate
- Terrain: Dirt tracks, asphalt roads
Maps:
The following maps and services can assist in navigating this route. There are links to printed maps and links to downloadable GPX route data for importing into navigational software and apps.
- GPX Route File
Accommodation:
Pefkos Blue Studios, PefkosapartmentView in Google Map
- Website
- http://www.pefkosbluehotel.com/
- Description
- Pefkos Blue formerly known as Dimitri Studios, offering self catering apartment studios overlooking Pefkos village with splendid views across the bay. This is probably the best place in Pefkos if you want to be away from the village. Above the hubbub it offers unrivalled views and a quiet location.
Transport:
Details of public transport that is required for the walk
Rhodes Public Transport - Bus Service
- Service Details
- Gennadi to Rhodes Town - KTEL Rhodes Public bus service serving the East Coast of Rhodes linking Gennadi, Kiotari, Lardos, Pefkos, Kalathos, Archangelos, Afandou, Faliraki and Rhodes Town
- Timetable
- Available here
Route Verification Details
- Date of Walk: 2021-10-07
- Walk Time: 11:00 to 14:30
- Walkers: Griffmonster, Kat
- Weather Conditions: Very warm but overcast day
Walk Notes
The circular part of this walk starts and ends at the church of the Holy Cross, or the Holly Cross Church as the sign proudly displays beside this typical Greek Chapel. This circular route is 6km (3.71 mile) but as there is no public transport to this location then the best thing to do is walk from Lardos where there is a frequent public bus service. Starting and ending in the village is an additional 5.4 km to provide a total distance of 11.4km (7.2 mile). This is easily achieved if one takes one time and makes a day of it. It should be stressed, as with all walks out in the wilds, that it is essential to take plenty of water for the adventure. On this occasion, early October with temperatures in the high 20's °C, a 1 litre bottle per person was enough.
The linear route from Lardos to the Holy Cross Church is along a quiet asphalt road that provides access to the working monastery of Moni Ipseni which is located up in the hills. This road hardly sees any traffic other than roaming goats, and on this specific occasion an impressive stag deer that stood in the middle of the road before the photo shy creature dashed off into the undergrowth. Walking along this section is easy going as it is a fairly flat landscape through the olive groves interspersed with small Chapels. These chapels are documented in The Lardos Short River Walk which can also be used as an alternative route back down to the village to make a fully circular route.
Eventually the olive groves give way to woodland, dominated by the pine which cover the hillsides of Rhodes island. I am led to believe that two varieties of pine grow here, the Aleppo pine (Pinus halepensis
) and the closely related Brutia pine (Pinus brutia
), both drought resistant species that have adapted to the Rhodian Summer heat. The trees offer cooling shade for the final part of this section where the road leaves the flat valley and ascends some 50m over 350m as it curves around to meet the Holy Cross Church.
The Holy Cross Church sits within a courtyard where two tall pines provide shade from the sun. Unfortunately in all the occasions that we have passed this chapel on our many walking adventures we have never found the gates to this compound unlocked and therefore have not been able to appreciate the interior of the chapel in its full glory. Even so, it is always worthwhile taking time out to admire from a distance as one catches ones breath from the climb, and to take the opportunity to swig some water before heading onwards. A handy tip here is to freeze bottles of water overnight to provide a much more refreshing drink for the days adventures.
The circular route now begins, following the track that leads directly alongside the chapel walls. The first section continues through the pine forests whose shade is a relief as the twisting track crosses a fairly deep valley. At the top of the climb out of the valley the woodland gives way to olive groves across a much flatter landscape that is punctuated by tracks leading off into the groves. To the left is the mountain that hosts the tall radio masts on its summit which can be seen for miles around. One of these tracks leads all the way to the top, but that would be another days walk, another time, another visit to the island.
We continue onwards, ignoring all the tracks and paths that lead off the main track. A whitewashed building then comes into view. A small homestead with a flat roof and squat chimney. The building is adjoined to a fenced compound enclosing bushy broad leaved fruit trees. There is no sign of life but the thought of a humble living in such a location is something to dream about.
A little further on the track rises on a slight gradient at the top of which is another similar homestead. The house lloks to be complete and habitable. It is surrounded by recently constructed stone wall and on the land to the rear is a small chapel under construction.
Not far beyond this homestead is a track that branches off to the right. We take this, heading deeper into the hills. The track is broad and roughly follows the contours of the land so it is easy walking. Occasionally deep ruts are encountered where winter rains have washed the soil away. The landscape across this area is virtually all scrub, full of wild herbs such as thyme and Greek sage which scent the air. Spiny needles of such flora let you know they are there if brushed against by the side of the track, their sharp needles piercing and scratching. Small new pine growth can be seen throughout interspersed with a few mature trees. Every so often the telltale signs of wildfires can be seen, charred remains of old trees and darkened areas of ash on the ground. The conclusion of such evidence is that a wildfire had raged across this hillside some years previous.
This landscape now shows positive signs of rejuvenation with fresh new life blooming all across the area. Fires are part of a natural history of pine woodland, returning nutrient to the soil, burning dead wood and playing a vital part of new pine growth as their seeds are sealed in resin which fire melts to allow germination and new growth to set forth.
Wildfires were frequently in the news during the summer of 2021 where the media was awash with stories of burning woodland across the north east Rhodes island. Vast areas of forest were destroyed, threatening villages, the Kalamonas military camp and The Butterfly Valley. The whole island suffered from power cuts whilst the fires raged. The frequency of such fires across Greece during that summer was something not seen before with climate change being held as one of the principle causes.
With no expanse of trees, a broad panorama of the hills can be seen and frequent stops have to be made to admire across all directions. The mountain with the mast provides a backdrop to the south-east. To the east are the bare hills that hide Pefkos. All around in the other directions small rocky peaks are seen with the track negotiating a path around these.
The track leads into a more rocky area and a chapel can just about be seen to the right, perched on the hill. This, according to Google Maps, is the Chapel of St. Magdalene (Εκκλησάκι Αγίας Μαγδαληνής
) and sits atop a hill above Moni Ipseni. This shows we are on the right track and not far off the point where we head back towards Moni Ipseni. At this point there are some large boulders in the hillside and the track branches, one route taking a slightly higher level than the other. The two join back together after 100m, the lower route clearly gouged by flowing water which is probably why the higher route was created to get around such streams during winter. Both appear to be accessible.
It is shortly after this point that a track can be seen off to the right, and some distance above the one we are walking on. This track descends to meet with the track we walk and is the one we need to take, turning a sharp right and doubling back on the direction we were walking. This trail provides the link between the track we had chosen which goes deeper into the hills and the track that leads out of Moni Ipseni, both tracks following the contours of the hills with this trail linking across the valley that separates them. The trail turns to follow a contour down the valley then turns again at the point where crevice bears the evidence of water flowing down, across the track and into the valley beyond. The soil has eroded away and one has to step across the rubble and stones that have washed down. This is not difficult, just part of the adventure and reading the landscape. A little further on a similar crevice bears the scars of water but this time the way ahead is simple and we follow the route up a small incline to meet a T junction of tracks.
Our route not takes a right turn at the junction to follow the main track up a steady incline. At the top we are presented with the magnificent view of Moni Ipseni spreading out below. A huge new church is somewhat masked by the monastery buildings where a bell tower reaches to the heavens. The track becomes a surfaced road leading down to the complex. To the left an archway marks the entrance to a path that zig-zags up to a cross that is placed on the summit of a hill. We have been here before, and that simpler walk is documented in The Lardos to Moni Ipseni Walk, a straight forward route for the uninitiated adventurer to navigate. To be truthful we had been advised against walking these more remote tracks, on account that local folk feared we would get lost and never find the way back. However, with a navigation app on the phone, and plenty of years of experience of walking rural Rhodes, then confidence is gained to find this alternative circular route. In reality this is fairly simple and it is easy to navigate but I would strongly advise any one intending to walk any route in the wilds of Rhodes to seriously think of using a navigation app.
I will not dwell on detailing the history of the monastery which is covered in the above linked page. Suffice to say the monastery was founded in the 18th century by a Lardos man named Osios Meletios who frequented the area to pray. It was at this spot, during one of his meditations, that a shaft of light from the heavens glowed down to reveal an Icon of the Virgin Mary, mother of God. Subsequent visits were met with visions of Mary who requested the monastery to be built.
Moni Ipseni is a working monastery where a community of nuns live and pray, offering their wares of honey and other products to visitors. It is well worth the visit although one should cover up the flesh with the assortment of gowns provided at the entrance. It is a peaceful, tranquil place and you will be treated with a glass of fresh fruit juice.
On this occasion, at the main entrance sat a large black Mercedes saloon car. What made this distinctive was its registration plate, which was black with two gold stars. No numbers, no letters. We were later told that such vehicles are the transport for government officials.
The walk back to the Holy Cross church is simply following the road down the hill. This provides plenty of panoramic views and is easy going. Once at the Holy Cross church, the route is simply returning along the road from whence one came
Directions
Holy Cross and Moni Ipseni Circular walk
The circular part of this walk is located in the hills en route to the Moni Ipseni monastery. This entails an additional distance from Lardos to the Holy Cross church. This is a simple 2.8km walk from Lardos village square. The route exits Lardos to the western side, on the road to Kiotari. Cross the river bridge and continue beyond the village until there is a road on the right with a road sign to Moni Ipseni. Take this, which leads past a football ground on the right and continues towards the hills. Keep to this until it makes a sharp left turn as the road starts to ascend into woodland. The road climbs steeply before turning sharp right where the Holy cross church sits on the left hand side of the road.
Take the dirt track down the side of the Holy Cross church. Keep to the compound wall and continue beyond following the clearly defined track. This descends into a wooded valley before climbing back out. Keep to this main track ignoring all other paths and tracks. The track emerges from the woodland into an open landscape covered with olive groves. Keep to this, eventually passing a house on the right. Keep straight on, and at the top of a slight incline is another house on the right. A 100m after this house is a track that branches off to the right. Take this and keep to it for the next 1.7km. The track is clearly defined and the route is easy to navigate. Towards the end of this section the track divides into two parallel routes, one slightly higher than the other. This only lasts for 100m and the two routes join back together. After this point, on the right a track can be seen on the hillside to the immediate right, this descends and eventually meets the track we are on. Take this, almost doubling back on the way one is walking. Keep to this track which will soon turn sharp left then slowly descends on the hillside of a valley. Keep to this until it junctions with a track on the far side of the valley. Turn right and follow this track up a small hill. Where a track diverges, keep to the left on the main track up the hill. At the top of the hill the Moni Ipseni monastery complex can be seen below.
Follow the road through the monastery compound. This leads out up a small hill and then starts the descent down to the Holy Cross Church. Return to Lardos retracing ones steps along the road.
Refreshments
Memories, Lardos View in Google Map
- Address
- The Square, Lardos
The Facebook page for this village centre bar states Wonderful bar that serves breakfast and lunch, open all day and night serving amazing cocktails situated in the square of Lardos, come join us with any music of your choice!
This really encapsulates this lively and friendly bar. Always a cheerful welcome and what better place to sit, have a drink and relax watching the world enfold before you, not matter what time of the day or evening.
On this occasion we dropped in for a quick cold beer before heading for a meal
Savvas Grill Restaurant View in Google Map
- Address
- Savvas Grill Restaurant
There is nothing better than finding a quiet typical Greek Taverna with Greek hosts and amazing food. This is an unassuming family run taverna on the junction of roads in Lardos, away from the square but still amid the hubbub of activity. The food is typical Greek cuisine and well worth every effort to seek out.
One of our favourite tavernas. There was a little bit of communication breakdown in the order which reulted in being served a dish that was even better than what we had been expecting. In future this traditional Greek pork dish will be something high on our list to order. The place never disappoints.
Summary of Document Changes
Last Updated: 2021-12-07
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