Lindos Mountain Trail ~ Griffmonsters Great Rhodes Walks

Through the valley between the mountains

A walk through the mountains that form the backdrop to Lindos

Although this trail is more challenging than many of the walks on this website, the reward is the amazing views. From the highest point of the path, broad vistas can be seen taking in the whole of Navarone Bay from Pefkos to Lindos. The trail then leads through the valley between the Marmari and Zara mountains where the boulders are larger than the trees. The route leads down to the beach before returning to Lindos taking in a cliff chapel along the way, set in a cave in the hills above Vlicha Beach.

Lindos Mountain Trail - Essential Information

Walk Statistics:

Start location: Lindos
Distance: km ( miles)
Total Gain: metre ( ft)
Total Descent: metre ( ft)
Min Height: metre ( ft)
Max Height: metre ( ft)
Walk Time:
Walk type: Circular
Walk Grade: Hard
Terrain: Mountain paths

Maps:

The following maps and services can assist in navigating this route. There are links to printed maps and links to downloadable GPX route data for importing into navigational software and apps.

GPX Route File

Accommodation:

Pefkos Blue Studios, PefkosapartmentView in Google Map

Website: http://www.pefkosbluehotel.com/
Description: Pefkos Blue formerly known as Dimitri Studios, offering self catering apartment studios overlooking Pefkos village with splendid views across the bay. This is probably the best place in Pefkos if you want to be away from the village. Above the hubbub it offers unrivalled views and a quiet location.

Transport:

Details of public transport that is required for the walk

Rhodes Public Transport - Bus Service

Service Details: Gennadi to Rhodes Town - KTEL Rhodes Public bus service serving the East Coast of Rhodes linking Gennadi, Kiotari, Lardos, Pefkos, Kalathos, Archangelos, Afandou, Faliraki and Rhodes Town
Timetable: Available here

Route Verification Details

Date of Walk: 2018-10-10
Walk Time: 09:30 to 13:30
Walkers: Griffmonster, Kat
Weather Conditions: Bright sunshine

Walk Notes

It has to be said that this walk does require some effort. This is not a Sunday stroll and not something for the inexperienced walker. One needs decent footwear, the ability to navigate by stone cairns and a good supply of water. The terrain is craggy rock which one has to navigate through, picking the course by following the numerous stone cairns that mark the route. At times the path appears obvious. Other times the cairns provide the vital guidance. There are small climbs but nothing arduous, merely ascents over rocks and boulders where one has to pick ones footsteps around the obstacles.

Being a circular walk one can navigate in either direction. The clockwise route described here requires the most effort over the first 1km of the mountain terrain, after which the going gets easier. Walking the opposite direction leaves the challenges to the end. One takes ones choice, personally I prefer the challenges at the start with the steeper ascents rather than the gentle ascents and steeper descents of the opposite direction.

The start of the path can be found by following the road that heads inland just past the main bus stop at Lindos. At the roads extremity there is a rocky hill up which one needs to clamber. Although not signposted, the path is nonetheless easily picked out with stone cairns marking the route. This simple climb leads to a flatter landscape above with some amazing views looking back.

The route navigates along a ridge about three quarters the way up the mountain which leads roughly westwards, parallel to the road to Pefkos below. It is worth viewing this from the road at a later date to see just how far up one has walked. The initial section is fairly level but the terrain is strewn with rock and mountain rubble where wild herbs eek out their existence from every nook and cranny and lone olive trees dot the landscape, their scraggy branches providing little shade. The path meanders around the obstacles with a few climbs which are no more than clambers across the larger boulders. At times the path is indistinguishable and one has to look ahead for the next dependable cairn sitting atop a large boulder. Other times a narrow sandy surface reveals a well trodden route.

As one nears what appears to be a gorge and a higher mountain ahead, it is worth stopping and taking in the sights. The views are absolutely outstanding from up here. One can take in the view of the broad expanse of Navarone Bay. To the right is the hill under which Pefkos hides, the village buildings plainly visible. The tiny chapel of Prophet Elias is easily picked out atop the small mountain overlooking the village. From this vantage point one looks down on that chapel. Yes down. This ridge is some 230m in altitude, the chapel is some 100m below.

We have to leave this view as the path turns inland to navigate a route through a valley between two mountains, the towering Marmari on the left and Zata on the right. There is a small climb up a ridge where the path cuts a route diagonally across the rocks before one loses the views completely. There is only room to allow one person up or down at a time and on this occasion we had to wait for a party of walkers heading in the opposite direction. They first walkers clamber down in determined mood, heading straight ahead with a few indecipherable words exchanged. German by the sound of it.

Now, it has to be said that all the Griffmonster walks that appear on this site are undertaken with very little encounters with other folk. Plenty of goat-kind. The odd lizard. But human contact is minimal. Maybe a smallholder or villager but certainly not tourists. So it is a surprise to see a group of Germans here, in this somewhat inhospitable terrain. And they have not been the only folk encountered. A couple passed us soon after starting the climb. Then another couple passed the other direction. Then a small group of Germans passed. And now, here we stood by the narrow path that navigated through the stony ascent to the top of this small ridge, and descending down in the opposite direction came 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7. Seven. Seven Germans. Some make a greeting. A simple Hello was returned. A brief glimpse up and there's more, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12... They keep on coming, a subgroup stopping briefly to take in the view, their walking poles hang limply for a few seconds. They wait until more arrive to hurry them on. 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19.. and still they come. Of all the places to get stuck in a queue. On a remote Greek mountain! 21, 22, 23.... a glance up the ridge and there were even more heading down. In all there must have been some 30 or 40. A whole coach party!

If truth is told then it has to be said that this specific route is well advertised and appears on websites, in books and the path is even depicted on maps. I can only conclude that is why so many folk are encountered.

Beyond this point there is a wide valley that looks much greener than the arid south facing side. The trees are certainly more abundant and the landscape is dotted with huge boulders. And I mean huge. These are not just big. These things dwarf the trees. They can only have fallen from the mountain side, thrown down by tremors and quakes over the centuries. The casual thought emerges that one does not want a tremor to occur during the next hour. Dodging huge boulders is not a challenge that inspires me.

The walking becomes easier. The path still meanders but it is easier to pick out. Eventually the path drops down a ridge to a small shack at the head of a dirt track. Under the ridge is a large cave which every curious wanderer must poke their nose inside. It is empty other than piles of small stones and pebbles indicating that it may have been used in days gone by. Maybe a hermitage or chapel?

The track leads down to another shack and from here there is a choice. The path continues ahead on the right. The track offers an easier and flatter track and runs a parallel course on the left. They meet back up shortly after where the track turns and proceeds down a gorge with a wide open view of Vlicha Bay inviting one down with its blue seas. There is a gateway that the track passes through and it does bring the thought that it may sometimes be locked although the gates do look untouched for many years.

Vlicha beach provides the opportunity for a relax and refreshments before embarking on the climb back up to where the walk started. There are a few tavernas along the beach-front and after the trek through the mountains a long cold drink is a worthy reward.

Return to Lindos uses a path out of Vlicha that leads up to the road. This is a steady climb and one needs to head towards a small chapel that sits within a cave, half way up the ascent. It is well worth visiting this chapel and more information about the chapel can be found in the main feature to this walk.

The last section of this walk follows the main road back to Lindos from the viewing point by the Amphitheatre night club. Unfortunately there is no path across the rocky hillside, adjacent the road, that forms the bay below. This bay is marked as Porto Grande on old 1930s Italian maps. Modern maps don't appear to give the bay a name. Maybe it is still Porto Grande. The mountain names of Marmari and Zata appear on both old and new maps. Maybe Porto Grande is now discarded due to its Italian origin and the mountain names refer back to the pre-Italian occupation of the island. It is something to ponder over as one traipses down the road, hugging the crash barriers in the small space away from the traffic.

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The climb out of Vlicha

Directions

The route follows a cairn marked path through the mountains, returning via Vlicha beach

The route starts at the main bus stop and car park on the main road at the top of Lindos. Walk in the direction of Pefkos, past the Flora Supermarket on the right and take the road that leads down the side of the adjacent parking area. This leads past hotels and apartments and after 600m turns a sharp left. On the right there is a rocky embankment and half way along this before the road turns back on itself there is a path. There are no signs but it is easily found by the warn surfaces and stone cairns. Clamber up this to the top. The path is marked out beyond with more cairns and it becomes a case of navigating between them.

The path is fairly flat but there are a few climbs where it ascends to another height. None of these are specifically difficult and it usually is no more than a clamber up the rocks with cairns clearly marking the route. As the route heads towards the taller Marmari mountain there is a steep chasm. Do not worry the path does not go near this and will soon bend around to navigate through the valley between the mountains.

The path becomes easier to follow as it slowly descends through a much more fertile valley with plenty of trees. Eventually there is a short steep descent down to a track. Follow this track which leads around the valley and down a gorge where the distant Vlicha Bay come into view. Keep to the track until it emerges onto the road. Turn right then take the immediate left onto the road that leads down to the beach. Turn right and walk along the road at the head of the beach. Keep to this road, ignoring the turn off to the right, until the road veers off from the beach and starts to climb. Follow this up, around a sharp left and then turns to a dirt track as it bends around to the right. Take the firsst dirt track that forks off to the left and at the bottom of a small descent take the path on the right up the hillside heading for the distinctive white cave part way up the hill. This is the chapel. Continue around to the left hand side of the chapel and follow the path to the top where it emerges onto the main road by the sightseeing parking area by Club Amphitheatre. There is a short walk along the roadside back to the start of the walk at Lindos

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View down to Pefkos

Refreshments

Glyka Nera, Vlycha View in Google Map

Address: Beach Road, Vlycha

Taverna attached to the Yota Beach Hotel. Even so, this is a typical Greek Taverna which has many good reports on its traditional Greek dishes and friendly and welcoming service. An under cover seating area provides welcome shade with a vista across the beach.

Review

we only stopped here for a drink and, being early lunchtime, were the only guests. A bowl of nuts was provided with the drinks and this must be a regular complimentary snack for the local sparrows were tame enough to walk and fly around within touching distance such was their expectation of being rewarded with a tidbit.

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Track heading down to Vlicha

Features

Cave Chapel above VlichaView in Google Map

Situated part way up the hill between the Vlicha beach and the main road, there is a little Chapel set in a cave. Three whitewashed steps lead to the whitewashed entrance and either side are whitewashed rocks making it stand out from the distance. Crude whitewashed crosses adorn the thick rocks that form its roof and a small black door allows entry into this humble abode, albeit most people have to stoop to get through.

Standing at the door one can look back at the panorama of Vlicha Bay with the large hotels in the distance and yachts standing to attention on the placid aqua marine waters. No-one would know the chapel was here unless they took the opportunity to climb up this wilderness track. There are no websites that point the tourist to this little chapel, no advertising leaflets to herald this idyllic sanctuary perched on the hillside. This may be good for the serenity and peace of such a location but it does little for those who want to know of its history, of who and when it was founded as a chapel.

The interior has a pebbled floor providing a flat surface of the single chapel room. The walls are straight with small platforms and hollowed out shelves that are carved out of the rock. The centre of the back wall has a half hemisphere carved out of the rock. Maybe that should be termed a tetartosphere. Maybe there is a word for such an area. This does appear to serve as the church sanctuary with a humble square table placed at its centre which I guess serves as the altar. Numerous other small tables decorate the cave, each with its own table cloth neatly placed and candlesticks stood upon them. As is typical of Greek chapels the walls are adorned with icons but it is the sanctuary that is most intriguing as the whole tetartosphere appears to be adorned with faded frescoes depicting the saints. The once vibrant colours are very much deteriorated and are now nothing more than dull ghostly images, pitted and pockmarked with areas where the underlying rocks show through. Nonetheless they are there, akin to those wall paintings one may see in medieval English churches that managed to survive the reformation period. Could this be equally as old? One can only speculate but if they are not that old then it was either a bad batch of paint or an artist who was not quite clued up on the materials to use.

Another interesting facet of the cave is that the rocks that form the roof appear to be placed in position. Certainly the back wall is against the base rock with the rock carved out for ornamentation. However, the interior roof is pitched and again suggests the roof stones have been placed rather than occupying their natural positions. A large boulder is placed on the exterior, adjacent to the entrance and begs the question of whether this once concealed the entrance. Was this was once a tomb? So many questions and little in the way of documentation to reveal any answers.

Cave churches and chapels are certainly not rare in Greece, they appear far and wide across both mainland and islands and some are huge impressive structures whilst others are no more than a humble hole in a cliff-face. Many are ancient, marking locations of miraculous events. Some go back centuries before Christ such as the Melidoni Cave in Crete which has reputedly been a place of worship since the Minoan period (2100 – 1600 B.C), The abstract to the book Caves and the Ancient Greek Mind states,

In ancient Greece, a common method of search for divine wisdom was to descend into caves or underground chambers. Entering caves persistently appears as a major requirement for prophecy-giving, both in established cults and in the activities of individual seers. Underground sojourns recur in the activities of several early Greek sages and philosophers. Mystery initiations comprise rites located in caves or dark chambers.

Whatever the Chapels history, whether modern or ancient, one has to admit that this location is idyllic and the peace and serenity is worth taking time out to stand in the solitude before one continues ones journeys onward.

References

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Chapel hidden in a cave in the hills above Vlicha

Gallery

Below are a selection of images taken from from the photo album for this walk. Feel free to browse through these or click on an image to view a larger version in the Gallery.