Easy Walk from Pefkos to Lardos
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Thursday, 19 October 2017
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A simple 4.5 mile walk to the village of Lardos
This is such a simple walk and one to introduce any newcomer visiting Pefkos to something more of the nature of the island and its people. Lardos is a working village located a mile or so inland with a busy square that is a hubbub of activity. The route passes by the Stafilia mountain where the ruins of Lardos castle can be seen looking out across the valley.
Easy Walk from Pefkos to Lardos - Essential Information
Walk Statistics:
Maps:
The following maps and services can assist in navigating this route. There are links to printed maps and links to downloadable GPX route data for importing into navigational software and apps.
- GPX Route File
Transport:
Details of public transport that is required for the walk
Rhodes Public Transport - Bus Service
- Service Details
- Gennadi to Rhodes Town - KTEL Rhodes Public bus service serving the East Coast of Rhodes linking Gennadi, Kiotari, Lardos, Pefkos, Kalathos, Archangelos, Afandou, Faliraki and Rhodes Town
- Timetable
- Available here
Route Verification Details
- Date of Walk: 2017-10-08
- Walk Time: 10:00 to 13:00
- Walkers: Griffmonster, Kat
- Weather Conditions: Bright sunshine
Walk Notes
A common question from many who stay in Pefki is Can I walk to Lardos?
. It is that seeking question of those who want to discover something more than the holiday resort yet do not want to venture too far from familiarity. It is an easy walk and one can simply follow the main road which is safe enough to walk along. As a bonus the route passes the Lardos Folklore Museum which is well worth taking a couple of hours out to pay a visit and talk with the proprietor. Such a wander will be included on this site at a later date but for this walk, we will take you on a a more scenic route to the village and make some discoveries along the way.
It would be good to follow the coastline through to the area known as Lothiarika Beach. Unfortunately, this is not possible with rocky outcrops and private beaches blocking the way between beaches. Therefore, it is best to follow the road out of Pefki, which may sound somewhat daunting, but there is plenty of space at the roadside to shield oneself from any traffic. It is never too busy along this thoroughfare and there are always the rocky cliffs of the mountains that form the backdrop to Pefki to admire with all their caverns and caves. According to the Kompass map, these are known as the Marmari mountains (Μαρμάρι
) although I cannot determine the meaning of this word. It does appear that some folk see these mountains as a challenge and attempt to scale them directly from Pefki. It is worth making sure your holiday insurance covers such activities if that is your intention.
This stretch of road has a lot of new development springing up on it such is the popularity of the area with tourists. Long gone are the days when Pefki was no more than a simple fishing hamlet. But that said, if it was no more than a simple fishing hamlet I guess I would not have visited it from afar and this doggerel would not be flowing forth from the keyboard of my pc.
At the far end of this straight stretch of highway, the road turns to head inland in order to negotiate its way across the unnamed river that flows down from Lardos to the sea. This is the simple route up to Lardos where one just needs to follow the road signs. As for the river, for the sake of identification, at least until I find otherwise, I will call it the Lardos river. Most of the year, as is the case with all Rhodes rivers, it is no more than a dry river bed which assists us in negotiating this route. An area of hotels and villas abound here, hugging Lothiarika Beach all the way up to the river. The beach can be accessed by way of the road down the side of the Mare Matto restaurant where the walk continues in front of the hotels on the mix of sand and pebbles. One soon comes to the river, evident by the vegetation that surrounds it and a small puddle on the beach heading to the sea. If one peers into this mass of greenery there may well be some water, this was certainly the case in early October.
Beyond the river, the beach is known as Lardos Beach and at the far end is a roadway that leads up an embankment to join the main road through to Kiotari. Before this road leads onto the main road, it emerges from between the hotel apartments and one needs to follow this course up the river valley. It soon leads out into the countryside and after a few twists and turns meets the main road opposite the road to Lardos and adjacent to the Alexandra Bakery Cafe where there is the chance to take a rest over a coffee. The pair of young assistants in this establishment are very convivial and proffer light hearted talk and banter and even volunteer to take a photo of us on this occasion. I would encourage anyone passing to take time out and purchase a coffee and watch the world go by for half an hour on the stools that parade the front of the bakery. There is always something to watch. The coming and going of the local folk. The variety of passing local traffic. It is a main road but no vehicle appears to be in a hurry, not like the manic drivers back home in old Blighty.
On this occasion, a battered old motor crosses from the Lardos road with all the urgency of a gastropod mollusc on a constitutional meander. There is no real indication of where the ageing driver was attempting to aim for. The car falters to a halt at the entrance to the Bakery. Another car waits to exit. It is not exactly clear whether the car waiting to exit is waiting for the old chap to enter the car park or vice versa. There is a little bit of an impasse with neither party wanting to make the first move. Eventually the car waiting to move out reverses back into the car park. The battered car moves onto the car park and the old driver heralds a castigation of abuse at the other driver. He had obviously wanted to let the chap out.
As one follows the road down to Lardos, on the left is the tiny Church of St Ionnis. Although the gate to this church is locked, it is still possible to admire from a distance and is worth mounting the steps to view do just this. Continuing down the road, on the left is mountain with communications aerials on its summit. According to Google maps this is Katafigio Agrias Zois Xortis
which appears to translate as a wildlife refuge or nature reserve. The Kompass map and online map lists it as Stafilia (Σταφυλια)
which translates as Grapes. Maybe this once was a mountain covered with grapevines.
As one walks further along the road ones eyes will be drawn to what appears to be a brick ruin part way up the hillside. We were lucky enough to gain a sense of its enormity due to two people standing above one of the walls. It is huge albeit the wall only appears to be the support for a higher structure that has long gone. These are the remains of the 13th century Lardos Castle. There is no obvious route up to it from the road but I have since found a track which is the subject of the walk Expedition to Lardos Castle. An alternative route to the castle is a circular route as plotted on ViewRanger website.
The road bends round into Lardos, crossing a river bridge. Before continuing to the village square it is worth taking a wander around the back streets to capture the essence of a Greek village life. Head for the bell tower of the church on the hill before heading back down into the village. The square is surrounded by tavernas. Take your pick. On this occasion we took the Kavos Restaurant for a mix of starters and a cold refreshing beer. Unfortunately this excellent little taverna closed in 2018 and has subsequently been sold and is currently undergoing a complete renovation. For those wanting to take the bus back then the timetable is posted by the water fountain on the square and the bus back to Pefkos departs on the corner of the old Kavos Restaurant.
Directions
The route follows the road through to Lardos beach. After a simple beach walk it then takes the old road through to Lardos. This route can be found on the ViewRanger app.
Take the coast road out of Pefki and follow this through to just before where it bends round to the right. Look out for the Mare Matto restaurant on the corner of a road on the left hand side. Take the road down to the beach and continue along the beach. At one point there is a fence between the hotel beaches that appears to block the way but walk down to the sea and there is a gateway through.
Continue just past the river and look for the road that leads up to the main road. follow this back as it winds through the buildings. Keep to the road out into the countryside until it meets the main road opposite the Lardos road, with the Bakehouse Bakery adjacent. Go straight ahead down the Lardos road and follow this through to Lardos village. It is worth investigating the back streets before heading to the square which is immediately down the road leading into the village
Return is either back along the road or catching the bus which stops in the square.
Refreshments
Kavos Taverna View in Google Map
- Address
- Kavos Taverna
Family run taverna that began life in Pefki before moving to the village square in Lardos. Traditional Greek dishes specialising in fresh local fish and seafood. Unfortunately this tavern closed in 2018 but has since reopened under new management.
A relaxing way to have a meze and drink watching the world go by. Perfect! It has to be said that since this has reopened under new management, on subsequent visits we have not ventured into it.
Memories Cocktail Bar View in Google Map
- Address
- Memories Cocktail Bar
Friendly taverna that looks out onto the square and is always popular. A great place to have a coffee or frappe or a beer or even a cocktail and watch the world go by
A great place to relax
Features
Lardos CastleView in Google Map
After the fall of the Kingdom of Jerusalem in 1291, the Knights of the Order of St. John sought a place for their home. After failing to attempt to base themselves in Cyprus, they invaded Rhodes island, the city of Rhodes finally surrendering in 1310. They immediately set to strengthen their hold by building forts across the island to defend themselves against other invaders.
Depending upon the account one reads, the castle was either built by the Knights temselves or they used an earlier structure as a basis of their stronghold at Lardos. What all accounts agree on is that the structure is from the Byzantine era which itself is a huge period dating from 330AD to 1453AD.
All that is left of the castle today are ruins covering a full square km, including the foundation remains of the main gate and two square towers. Archaeologists have also discovered other buildings from the era in the area. For more information and details of walking to the castle see Expedition to Lardos Castle
References
Gallery
Below are a selection of images taken from from the photo album for this walk. Feel free to browse through these or click on an image to view a larger version in the Gallery.
Summary of Document Changes
Last Updated: 2021-12-07
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