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Saturday, 14 January 2023

Salakos and the Butterfly River Walk

Salakos and the Butterfly River Walk

A circular walk taking in the Butterfly River at Salakos

The Butterfly River cascades down through the wooded valley to the east of the village of Salakos. The well trod path that follows this river climbs to the head of the stream where the area of the Nymph springs makes a fitting finale of this walk. Plenty of views, plenty of shady lush vegetation and, of course plenty of butterflies.

Salakos and the Butterfly River Walk - Essential Information

Walk Statistics (calculated from GPX):

  • Start location: Salakos 
  • Distance:   km (  miles)
  • Total Gain:   metre (  ft)
  • Total Descent:   metre (  ft)
  • Min Height:   metre (  ft)
  • Max Height:   metre (  ft)
  • Walk Time:  
  • Walk Grade: Moderate
  • Terrain: Footpath, Track, Roads

Maps:

The following maps and services can assist in navigating this route. There are links to printed maps and links to downloadable GPX route data for importing into navigational software and apps.

 

Route Verification Details

  • Date of Walk: 01/10/2022
  • Walk Time: 12:00:00 to 15:00:00
  • Walkers: Griff, Kat
  • Weather Conditions: Warm, blue skies and sunshine

Walk Notes

Salakos (Σάλακος) is a small village on the western side of Rhodes that nestles some 290m above the coast in the foothills of Mount Prophitis Ilias. It is some 6km from the coast and 36km by road from Rhodes town with a very limited bus service that passes through the village. The village is said to have taken its name of a former local landowner.

At the village centre is a square shaded by large leafy trees. An ornate stone fountain provides a constant stream of running water, presumably supplied from the numerous local springs that can be found throughout the area. The fountain is of Italian design, constructed during their occupation of the island during the first half of the 20th century. The far side of the square hosts the police station, with the other sides populated by numerous tavernas, each one having tables allocated in the square. This really is an idyllic place to sit, have a bite to eat or just a drink and absorb the quiet village life.

Salakos Village Square
Salakos Village Square

Salakos has a 14th century Church of the Dormition located east of the square, a worthy piece of architecture to view, although it is not generally open to the public. From the square, take the first left heading up the village road, then bear right.

There are also ruins of a medieval castle constructed by the Order of the Knights of St. John that provided a muster point for inhabitants of Kapi and Kitala when sieges of the island were imminent. Little remains of the structure which is located on private land between houses.

The area is famed for its natural springs, the principle one being the Nymph spring, named after the Greek nature deity who is usually depicted in art as a maiden.

The only tourist hotel in the village is also named after the spring, the Hotel Nymph, which is of classic 1920s Italian style. Being one of the oldest guest houses on the island it has rightfully been classed as a preservable work of art by the Archaeological Department of Greece. The accommodation consists of four double rooms which can be converted to triple rooms, each with its own bathroom.

XXX
The Hotel Nymph, the only tourist hotel in the village, with the backdrop of Mount Prophetis Ilias

The surrounding area is full of trails and walks which brings the more adventurous tourist to visit the place, usually in guided tours or hiking groups. Here at Griffmonster Walks, we prefer the art of self discovery and Salakos became the place for a 4 night stay to explore the village, the surrounding area and the trails and walks associated with it. Presented here, is a simple walk, a wander that any new arrival to the village that can undertake, and one that does not stray too far from the village itself. The route follows the Butterfly River, a stream that tumbles down the hillside from the springs above, through a valley full of lush vegetation and copious shady trees where butterflies dart around unconcerned with any passers by.

This Butterfly River should not be confused with the renowned tourist attraction at Theologos commonly known as the Butterfly Valley, which is a focus for copious amounts of tourist groups each year. In contrast, the Butterfly River has no major road signs directing passers by to its location and none the usual paraphernalia associated with tourist destinations such as gift shops and cafes. Consequently it is devoid of the hoards of visitors which makes for an idyllic wander in the peaceful and tranquil surroundings. As the name suggests, the valley through which it flows is inhabited by a myriad of butterflies, predominantly of the species Callimorpha, with the common name of the Tiger Moth. In similarity with the Valley of the Butterflies, this valley is also home to to the oriental sweetgum tree (Liquidambar Orientalis), together with myrtle, old world sycamore, white willow, Mediterranean buckthorn, the Mastic tree, and the ubiquitous Mediterranean oak (ref: Distribution of Liquidambar orientalis Miller on Rodhos Island; Krystyna Boratyńska, Adam Boratyński).

The route is under 4km and is best approached from the bottom of the valley with the ultimate finale being the nymph spring at the head of the valley where one can spend time admiring the views. There are steps and rustic fences along the route that guide the visitor, so even without gps it should be easily navigable, just follow the sound of water up stream.

The directions are simple. Head out of the village to where the road turns a sharp left bend where a track leads off on the right down a very steep hill. This is a concrete surface but care should be taken getting down due to its steepness.

The steep hill down into the valley where the walk up the Butterfly River begins
The steep hill down into the valley where the walk up the Butterfly River begins

Keep to this track until it junctions with another and take the right. At the next crossroads take a hard right and then follow the track on the left soon after where an ageing sign points in English to the Butterfly River. This will lead up the valley, keeping the stream on the right. Soon the water can be heard and seen.

The only sign for the Butterfly River
The only sign for the Butterfly River

The path is not waymarked but it is pretty obvious route. The river is soon reached and certainly for most of the year it is no more than a small stream cascading down through the valley. It is difficult to intially view the stream with the copious number of trees that surround it, offering plenty of shade for the climb up through the valley. But it is there. In places rustic steps and fences guide the way although the well trodden route seems obvious.

Typical fence along the route that guides ones way
Typical fence along the route that guides ones way

There are a number of rustic old bridges along the way and presumably the paths that continue lead back to the village. It is always good to cross the bridges and view the waters below, but keep to the eastern side of the river to continue onwards. In places the path diverges into two options but these meet back up.

Bridge across the river gorge
Bridge across the river gorge
Another bridge further up stream
Another bridge further up stream

Eventually the path meets up with a road. But this is not the end. Turn right along the road.

The final stage up to the road
The final stage up to the road

Within minutes of walking along the road, one enters the area of the Nymph springs. A landscaped area at the head of the river with fountains, water features, seating, fantastic views that reveal the lush valley and beyond all the way to the coast and the blue sea that is bordered by the mountainous misty landscape of Anatolia.

The water fountain at Nymph springs
The water fountain at Nymph springs
The view from Nyph Springs to the Coast
The view from Nyph Springs to the Coast

There is also a cave behind where each Christmas a nativity is played out (details here) and a local tea made from 15 herbs is served to all who attend

The cave at Nymph Springs
The cave at Nymph Springs

Below the viewing area is a small reservoir of water that then feeds into the river. There is a walkway down and around the reservoir which has to be done after venturing to this place

View to the reservoir
View to the reservoir
View from the reservoir
View from the reservoir

To return to Salakos continue on the road beyond, past the windmill and up to the main road, turn right and follow the road, past the Hotel Nymph and all the way back to the village square.

Salakos windmill
Salakos windmill

It has to be said that we at Griffmonster Walks arrived at Salakos in the Autumn of 2022, after the short taxi journey from the airport and opened up the taxi door, all we could hear was the birds singing, the occasional crow of a cockerel and nothing more other than the silence of nature and we knew this was something special, something that we had dreamed of. The Hotel Nymph website states on their home page, and I paraphrase the words:

If you have ever dreamed of a place to explore the herb scented mountains of Greece with views even the gods would envy, dreamed of relaxing in carefree style where all worries and cares melt away, dreamed of staying in a true Greek village with its characteristic square, then come and stay at Salakos.

They capture the very essence of what I am trying to write here and now. This will forever live in our memories. Hopefully we can return in the future and capture some more of this Greek essence.

XXX
The walk home after a satisfying meal, a satisfying few glasses of wine and the comforting knowledge that we dared take the plunge and visit true Greece

Summary of Document Changes

Last Updated: 2023-01-16

2023-01-14 : Initial publication
Location: Salakos 851 06, Greece

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