Expedition to the Gadoura Dam and Reservoir
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Saturday 30 July 2022
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2 comments |
A days hike from Massari to the Garoura Dam and reservoir and onwards to Lardos
At 13 miles this is a lengthy full days hike to the Gadoura reservoir. This takes a lot of stamina and one needs to take plenty of supplies as there is no place for refreshments along the way. Despite this the effort is well worth it, being rewarded by unique Rhodian scenes of the deep blue reservoir backdropped by the distant mountains
Expedition to the Gadoura Reservoir - Essential Information
Walk Statistics:
Maps:
The following maps and services can assist in navigating this route. There are links to printed maps and links to downloadable GPX route data for importing into navigational software and apps.
- GPX Route File
Accommodation:
Pefkos Blue Studios, PefkosapartmentView in Google Map
- Website
- http://www.pefkosbluehotel.com/
- Description
- Pefkos Blue formerly known as Dimitri Studios, offering self catering apartment studios overlooking Pefkos village with splendid views across the bay. This is probably the best place in Pefkos if you want to be away from the village. Above the hubbub it offers unrivalled views and a quiet location.
Transport:
Details of public transport that is required for the walk
Rhodes Public Transport - Bus Service
- Service Details
- Gennadi to Rhodes Town - KTEL Rhodes Public bus service serving the East Coast of Rhodes linking Gennadi, Kiotari, Lardos, Pefkos, Kalathos, Archangelos, Afandou, Faliraki and Rhodes Town
- Timetable
- Available here
Route Verification Details
- Date of Walk: 2021-10-09
- Walk Time: 09:00 to 16:00
- Walkers: Griffmonster, Kat
- Weather Conditions: Very warm day with clear blue skies
Walk Notes
WARNING: This is an extensive hike. There are no tavernas on this route and you will need plenty of food and water - recommended at least 2 litres per person. Do not attempt this in the height of Summer.
Construction of the Gadoura Dam and its subsequent reservoir began in 2002 as a project to supply potable water for the island of Rhodes up to the year 2039 when the estimated demand would be 26.5 million cubic meters. Prior to its completion in 2014, Rhodes was supplied with water from a network of wells which had suffered from a severe drop in groundwater levels leading to brackish water supply in several areas of the island.
The dam itself is an impressive 67m high and a 585m length with a 10m crest width holding back some 67.5 million cubic meters of water contained in the resultant lake that covers some 4 decacres (4 sq km) in area with a capture area of 148 sq km representing 11% of the islands area.
By anyone's standards these are impressive figures and judging by the photos of the reservoir and dam that adorn the tourists websites, the views are equally impressive. For those who want to view the spectacle themselves then the only access is by tracks or road with no public transport that comes close to the reservoir. The location is 100m above sea level in the hills above the east coast, 6.5km west of Massari and 7km north of Lardos as the crow flies. There is a tarmac road to the dam that leads from the road between Lardos and Laerma and also a track that roughly follows the perimeter of the lake. For walkers and hikers the nearest access is either Kalathos, Massari, Lardos or Laerma.
After studying the various alternative routes it was found that the minimum distance between public transport access was some 21km (13 miles). This may not seem far for a seasoned English hiker and indeed during the English summers such distances are a covered with minimal effort. However, the climate on Rhodes is totally different to jolly old England and although the early Autumn Rhodes temperatures may look similar on paper to English summers, let this not fool you. This is a challenge and one should not underestimate the effort required, the heat involved and the water required for such an expedition.
There are various options that are possible to hike up to the dam. One could walk the Gadoura river bed all the way through but I have not found any evidence of anyone who has undertaken this. There are also tracks and paths following the coastward side of the river but it is uncertain if access up to the reservoir was achievable. Therefore, as a first attempt it was considered that the best option would be to follow the main track from the Massari side up to the reservoir, clearly defined on maps, returning via other clearly defined tracks back to Lardos. This may not appear as adventurous as some may like but it provides certainty of achieving the aim of the walk of viewing the dam and reservoir.
The first part of the walk is to get to the main track that leads through the hills to the reservoir. This is some 3km walking from the Massari crossroads and navigates through the orange and olive groves to the south of the village. Beyond the groves there is a rather laborious wander along the dead straight road which had once been part of the original national highway but is now no more than a back road where little traffic passes. Despite the monotony of the road there is the landscape to admire, the numerous goats that forage in the scrub and a couple of small chapels to admire along the route.
The reservoir track leads off to the right at an obtuse crossroads. Initially this looks to be another main thoroughfare into the hills but this does not last for long until it soon deteriorates into a track that leads up into the hills and much more befit to hiking. Before the first real ascent, the track meets a fork in the road. The left fork is a well built concrete road that follows the contour line and looks the easier option and even on the satellite map views, this appear to link back up further along without having to climb over the hills. There is a road sign further down this track but it is in Greek, declaring in large bold letters ΟΔΟΣ ΠΡΟΙ ΦΡΑΓΜΑ ΚΛΕΙΣΤΗ
which seems to translate as ROAD PRODUCT DAM CLOSED
. Further research shows that this leads down to some sort on entrance into the hillside, that looks suspiciously like a tunnel but not large enough for vehicles. therefore the best option is to stick to the right fork up the steep hill.
As we wandered along this track there was the distinct sound of distant gunshot. Single shots that punctuated the air every few minutes. First thought was that it was someone hunting rabbits or goats although I have to say I have never seen a rabbit on Rhodes. As we neared a sharp turn in the track we encountered two young men. They were armed with shotgun. They stared towards us. Silent. Probably surprised by two folk walking in this remote area. We walked past them offering a friendly 'kalimera' with which they responded likewise. It then became apparent they were target shooting, a battered target placed on a tree trunk. They allowed us to clear the area before taking up their practice again.
The track bends around and descends down to the river gorge which it then follows. This then cuts across a hillside where the riverbed snakes around a large curve to join back up with the track as it descends into the valley and across the river. This certainly gave the indication that hiking up the river bed should be possible.
There is a slow curve as the track now follows the river on the opposite side. Around the curve and the huge dam comes into sight. It is huge by any means and the closer one gets to it the vaster it feels. Beyond huge. Colossal. A tarmac road leads up the side to the top of the dam bordered with tall street lights. This is quite a climb and it is deceiving in its length, a lot longer than it first appears.
At the top of the hill the reservoir presents itself. What a joy to see. A vast lake of deep blue fresh water stretching through the hills. A complete contrast to the arid landscapes that typify the island. The scene provided the perfect moment to take time out, to sit down and admire the scenery. To drink water and have a bite to eat and take photos. Words do not do the view justice, and even photos do not capture the awe of the view with the deep blue waters that have a backdrop of Mount Attavyros itself.
This point in the walk is pretty much half way through the expedition, the second half navigating down to Lardos. Although there were a few clouds in the sky, the heat and humidity was taking its toll and we knew we had to conserve water supplies to last the distance. At the start we had 1.5 litres each, held in two 75ml bottles. These were iced water, frozen overnight in the freezer. This makes the water a lot more palatable and refreshing as it slowly melts but even at this point the ice had all gone and the water was warming up.
We followed the road around the perimeter of the lake for a short distance to a small parking area where a car drove in to a stop as we admired the scenery surrounding the lake. A couple of tourists get out of the car, very much middle aged. They took a curious glance at the two of us, probably wondering where our car was. From the few brief words of acknowledgement it would seem they were of German origin. They took a few moments to admire the view, then headed back to the car, having ticked the sight off their mental list of places to visit. Then off they sped to the next tourist spot.
The route follows the road as it departs from the reservoir and leads down through a very open landscape of scrub with no shade. Eventually a turning on the left is found with an old sign declaring Pilona
that points down a dirt track. This soon leads into an area of trees and shrubs which provide a little shade. The track looked well used and was easy walking until our route navigated away from this up a steep incline full of deep ruts carved out by winter rains with the one saving grace being a lot of shade from the surrounding trees.
This soon leads down to a more fertile area where small holdings full of olive trees are found making a pleasant and fairly easy wander. Eventually the track meets the Laerma road and a rest was called for. I attempted to sit on a small rise in the ground and soon found that the hardy herbs that cover most of the scrub are as a sharp as thistles. My bottom did not stay put for many seconds and the rest became no more than a swig of water and a few minutes stood in the shade of an olive tree.
The track crosses the highway to head for Lardos. The scenery becomes more interesting here with plenty of hills that the track navigates around. The pace had now slowed down. The distance and heat starting to tell as was the dwindling water supplies. We limited drinking to a sip every 15 minutes. In retrospect 2 litres of water would have been better and is the reason for the warning at the top of this page. Something to learn for similar distance hikes on Rhodes.
After about 3km the track rounds a corner into a more familiar view where a valley stretched out ahead and the building of Lardos can just be made out. There was still another 2km to go and the pace had distinctly slowed, with frequent stops in any shade that presented itself, whether that be from a tree, the overhang of a cliff or as we descended down into the valley the shade of the first chapel.
The final stretch was into Lardos itself, heading directly to the village square and the popular Memories taverna where a long cold beer was devoured, toasting to the satisfying success of the expedition. This was an awesome expedition and highly recommended but proceed with caution, never undertake this unless you are a seasoned hiker and have acclimatised to the humidity. And take plenty of water. The more the better.
Directions
Expedition to the Gadoura Dam and Reservoir
From the Massari crossroads on the national highway head into the village of Massari. After 250m take a road on the left that leads onto a track through the orange and olive groves. Keep to this after it crosses a road, following the main track and ignoring all other tracks that leads off from this. After 1.3 km of walking on this track it joins another, bear left which leads out nto a tarmac road. Turn right and follow this road, across a bridge then bear left with the road to continue on a long straight section until a road/track crosses the road at an obtuse angle. Take the right turn and follow this up into the hills. Ignore the turning where a concrete road bears off to the left. Keep to the main track ignoring all other tracks that lead off. Eventually there is a sharp turn to the right and the track leads down a hill. At the bottom the track doubles back in a sharp turn to follow the river gorge. This ev4ntually crosses the river bed and then follow on the opposite side to the dam. Take the tarmac road that leads to the top of the dam.
Take the road that leads south alongside the perimeter of the reservoir then leads away from the area. This is the main access road from Laerma. Take the first main track on the left which is signposted for Pilona. Where the track turns a sharp right take the left turn immediately after the bend. Keep to this track ignoring all other tracks that lead away from it until it meets the main highway. The track continues on the otherside some 50m down the road. Keep tot the track ignoring all other tracks. Where it junctions with another track keep heading straight ahead southwards, doing the same shortly after. This is now leading down the hillside with a steep cliff on ones right. As the track bears around to the right there is a track on the left. This is easy to miss and rubble almost blocks access. Take this. Eventually this leads down a steep hill by the St Seraphin chapel. At the bottom of the hill there is a junction. Proceed straight ahead which is the main route into Lardos. Where there is a road junction, keep straight ahead into the housing of Lardos. Next junction turn left. Follow the road around the bend then after the next sharp bend turn left which leads onto the main road into LArdos village centre.
Refreshments
Memories, Lardos View in Google Map
- Address
- The Square, Lardos
The Facebook page for this village centre bar states Wonderful bar that serves breakfast and lunch, open all day and night serving amazing cocktails situated in the square of Lardos, come join us with any music of your choice!
This really encapsulates this lively and friendly bar. Always a cheerful welcome and what better place to sit, have a drink and relax watching the world enfold before you, not matter what time of the day or evening.
As on many occasions this has become the end of an expedition and the cold beer goes down a real treat.
Summary of Document Changes
Last Updated: 2022-07-30
Was pleased to find you lovely report about this walk. We plan to visit in October not having been to Rhodes since 2017. We have driven around the lake many times during past trips as we love birdwatching & have had some great wildlife encounters there. We are wondering how the lake is faring and the water level looks understandably low. Hoping the circular road/track will be passable in October. Don’t think we are up for a 13 mile hike even in October temperatures. :-)
ReplyDeleteI really don't know about the circular route, whether it is surfaced or not. It is quite a hike up to the reservoir and hence the warnings. We try to walk or use public transport wherever possible but to do the perimeter of the reservoir would at least necessitate a hire car or taxi
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