Expedition to the Gadoura Dam and Reservoir
|
Saturday, 30 July 2022
|
4 comments |
A circular route through the hills between the Holy Cross church and Moni Ipseni
This walk leads in to the wild yonder to make a circular route between the Holy Cross church and Moni Ipseni. The starting point is in the hills but this specific route is detailed from the nearest transport hub at the village of Lardos. This is a beautiful wander through the hills, exploring the natural history of the island.
Holy Cross and Moni Ipseni Circular Walk - Essential Information
Walk Statistics:
Maps:
The following maps and services can assist in navigating this route. There are links to printed maps and links to downloadable GPX route data for importing into navigational software and apps.
- GPX Route File
Accommodation:
Pefkos Blue Studios, PefkosapartmentView in Google Map
- Website
- http://www.pefkosbluehotel.com/
- Description
- Pefkos Blue formerly known as Dimitri Studios, offering self catering apartment studios overlooking Pefkos village with splendid views across the bay. This is probably the best place in Pefkos if you want to be away from the village. Above the hubbub it offers unrivalled views and a quiet location.
Transport:
Details of public transport that is required for the walk
Rhodes Public Transport - Bus Service
- Service Details
- Gennadi to Rhodes Town - KTEL Rhodes Public bus service serving the East Coast of Rhodes linking Gennadi, Kiotari, Lardos, Pefkos, Kalathos, Archangelos, Afandou, Faliraki and Rhodes Town
- Timetable
- Available here
Route Verification Details
- Date of Walk: 2021-10-07
- Walk Time: 11:00 to 14:30
- Walkers: Griffmonster, Kat
- Weather Conditions: Very warm but overcast day
Walk Notes
WARNING: This is an extensive hike. There are no tavernas on this route and you will need plenty of water - recommended at least 2 litres per person.
The Gadoura reservoir supplies water to Rhodes. FIGURES........
We had seen plenty of photos of Gadoura reservoir. We had spoken to folk who had driven up to this huge area of water in the hills. It had always been an ambition to hike up there. There is no public transport to any place close and despite plotting several routes from various places on the public traansport map it became clear that the distance could not be reduced to under much less than 13 miles. That may not seem far to a seasoned hiker and indeed during the English summers we have undertaken hikes well in excess of 25 miles, and in one instance a challenge of 40 miles. The climate on Rhodes is totally different to jolly old England. Although Autumn Rhodes tempertures maay look similar on paper to Egnlish summers, let this not fool you.
The closest villages that public transport gets to the Reservoir are Lardos, KAlathos and Masari. There are also other considerations when undertaking this route. One could walk the Gadoura river bed all the way through to the dam but I have not found anyone who has undertaken this. There are also tracks and paths following the river but it is uncertain if access up to the reservoir was achievale. Therefore as a first attempt it was considered that the best option would be to follow the main track through. This was not as adventerous as some mayh like but it was more certain of achieving the walk than other options. The best way to access this route was to take the roads from either Kalathos or Massari, the distance being similar. MAssari won, on the account of it being a more pleasant walk along the roads and there is a kantina at the massari crossroads where we could grab some breakfast and add more food and water to the rucksack.
The first part of the walk is to get to the track to the reservoir. This is some 3km walking. The start is through the orange and olive groves of Massari which is described o many of the walks on this website. It is always a delight to walk thorugh. This leads onto the long straight roads which were part of the original national road but is now no more than a back road where little traffic passes.
The reservoir track leads off to the right at a crossroads on the road. Initially this looks to be another old main thoroughfare but this does not last long until it deteriortates into a track up into the hills. BEfore the first real ascent the meets a fork in the road. The left hand is a concrete road that follows the contour line and looks the easier option. The track followed here takes the right fork up the steep hill. The left looks the easier option and even on the plotted route it looks like it links back up further along without having to exertion over the hills. There is a road sig further down this track but it is in Greek, declaring in large bold letters ΟΔΟΣ ΠΡΟΙ ΦΡΑΓΜΑ ΚΛΕΙΣΤΗ
which seems to translate as ROAD PRODUCT DAM CLOSED
. Further research shows that this leads down tosome sort on entrance into the hillside, that looks suspisously like a tunnel but not large enough for vehicles. This leads into the hilside at 100m to emerge some 300m laterat the same contour on the other side of the hill. I will take a guess that this has something to do with the Gadoura dam.
The Holy Cross Church sits within a courtyard where two tall pines provide shade from the sun. Unfortunately in all the occasions that we have passed this chapel on our many walking adventures we have never found the gates to this compound unlocked and therefore have not been able to appreciate the interior of the chapel in its full glory. Even so, it is always worthwhile taking time out to admire from a distance as one catches ones breath from the climb, and to take the opportunity to swig some water before heading onwards. A handy tip here is to freeze bottles of water overnight to provide a much more refreshing drink for the days adventures.
The circular route now begins, following the track that leads directly alongside the chapel walls. The first section continues through the pine forests whose shade is a relief as the twisting track crosses a fairly deep valley. At the top of the climb out of the valley the woodland gives way to olive groves across a much flatter landscape that is punctuated by tracks leading off into the groves. To the left is the mountain that hosts the tall radio masts on its summit which can be seen for miles around. One of these tracks leads all the way to the top, but that would be another days walk, another time, another visit to the island.
We continue onwards, ignoring all the tracks and paths that lead off the main track. A whitewashed building then comes into view. A small homestead with a flat roof and squat chimney. The building is adjoined to a fenced compound enclosing bushy broad leaved fruit trees. There is no sign of life but the thought of a humble living in such a location is something to dream about.
A little further on the track rises on a slight gradient at the top of which is another similar homestead. The house lloks to be complete and habitable. It is surrounded by recently constructed stone wall and on the land to the rear is a small chapel under construction.
Not far beyond this homestead is a track that branches off to the right. We take this, heading deeper into the hills. The track is broad and roughly follows the contours of the land so it is easy walking. Occasionally deep ruts are encountered where winter rains have washed the soil away. The landscape across this area is virtually all scrub, full of wild herbs such as thyme and Greek sage which scent the air. Spiny needles of such flora let you know they are there if brushed against by the side of the track, their sharp needles piercing and scratching. Small new pine growth can be seen throughout interspersed with a few mature trees. Every so often the telltale signs of wildfires can be seen, charred remains of old trees and darkened areas of ash on the ground. The conclusion of such evidence is that a wildfire had raged across this hillside some years previous.
This landscape now shows positive signs of rejuvenation with fresh new life blooming all across the area. Fires are part of a natural history of pine woodland, returning nutrient to the soil, burning dead wood and playing a vital part of new pine growth as their seeds are sealed in resin which fire melts to allow germination and new growth to set forth.
Wildfires were frequently in the news during the summer of 2021 where the media was awash with stories of burning woodland across the north east Rhodes island. Vast areas of forest were destroyed, threatening villages, the Kalamonas military camp and The Butterfly Valley. The whole island suffered from power cuts whilst the fires raged. The frequency of such fires across Greece during that summer was something not seen before with climate change being held as one of the principle causes.
With no expanse of trees, a broad panorama of the hills can be seen and frequent stops have to be made to admire across all directions. The mountain with the mast provides a backdrop to the south-east. To the east are the bare hills that hide Pefkos. All around in the other directions small rocky peaks are seen with the track negotiating a path around these.
The track leads into a more rocky area and a chapel can just about be seen to the right, perched on the hill. This, according to Google Maps, is the Chapel of St. Magdalene (Εκκλησάκι Αγίας Μαγδαληνής
) and sits atop a hill above Moni Ipseni. This shows we are on the right track and not far off the point where we head back towards Moni Ipseni. At this point there are some large boulders in the hillside and the track branches, one route taking a slightly higher level than the other. The two join back together after 100m, the lower route clearly gouged by flowing water which is probably why the higher route was created to get around such streams during winter. Both appear to be accessible.
It is shortly after this point that a track can be seen off to the right, and some distance above the one we are walking on. This track descends to meet with the track we walk and is the one we need to take, turning a sharp right and doubling back on the direction we were walking. This trail provides the link between the track we had chosen which goes deeper into the hills and the track that leads out of Moni Ipseni, both tracks following the contours of the hills with this trail linking across the valley that separates them. The trail turns to follow a contour down the valley then turns again at the point where crevice bears the evidence of water flowing down, across the track and into the valley beyond. The soil has eroded away and one has to step across the rubble and stones that have washed down. This is not difficult, just part of the adventure and reading the landscape. A little further on a similar crevice bears the scars of water but this time the way ahead is simple and we follow the route up a small incline to meet a T junction of tracks.
Our route not takes a right turn at the junction to follow the main track up a steady incline. At the top we are presented with the magnificent view of Moni Ipseni spreading out below. A huge new church is somewhat masked by the monastery buildings where a bell tower reaches to the heavens. The track becomes a surfaced road leading down to the complex. To the left an archway marks the entrance to a path that zig-zags up to a cross that is placed on the summit of a hill. We have been here before, and that simpler walk is documented in The Lardos to Moni Ipseni Walk, a straight forward route for the uninitiated adventurer to navigate. To be truthful we had been advised against walking these more remote tracks, on account that local folk feared we would get lost and never find the way back. However, with a navigation app on the phone, and plenty of years of experience of walking rural Rhodes, then confidence is gained to find this alternative circular route. In reality this is fairly simple and it is easy to navigate but I would strongly advise any one intending to walk any route in the wilds of Rhodes to seriously think of using a navigation app.
I will not dwell on detailing the history of the monastery which is covered in the above linked page. Suffice to say the monastery was founded in the 18th century by a Lardos man named Osios Meletios who frequented the area to pray. It was at this spot, during one of his meditations, that a shaft of light from the heavens glowed down to reveal an Icon of the Virgin Mary, mother of God. Subsequent visits were met with visions of Mary who requested the monastery to be built.
Moni Ipseni is a working monastery where a community of nuns live and pray, offering their wares of honey and other products to visitors. It is well worth the visit although one should cover up the flesh with the assortment of gowns provided at the entrance. It is a peaceful, tranquil place and you will be treated with a glass of fresh fruit juice.
On this occasion, at the main entrance sat a large black Mercedes saloon car. What made this distinctive was its registration plate, which was black with two gold stars. No numbers, no letters. We were later told that such vehicles are the transport for government officials.
The walk back to the Holy Cross church is simply following the road down the hill. This provides plenty of panoramic views and is easy going. Once at the Holy Cross church, the route is simply returning along the road from whence one came
Directions
Holy Cross and Moni Ipseni Circular walk
The circular part of this walk is located in the hills en route to the Moni Ipseni monastery. This entails an additional distance from Lardos to the Holy Cross church. This is a simple 2.8km walk from Lardos village square. The route exits Lardos to the western side, on the road to Kiotari. Cross the river bridge and continue beyond the village until there is a road on the right with a road sign to Moni Ipseni. Take this, which leads past a football ground on the right and continues towards the hills. Keep to this until it makes a sharp left turn as the road starts to ascend into woodland. The road climbs steeply before turning sharp right where the Holy cross church sits on the left hand side of the road.
Take the dirt track down the side of the Holy Cross church. Keep to the compound wall and continue beyond following the clearly defined track. This descends into a wooded valley before climbing back out. Keep to this main track ignoring all other paths and tracks. The track emerges from the woodland into an open landscape covered with olive groves. Keep to this, eventually passing a house on the right. Keep straight on, and at the top of a slight incline is another house on the right. A 100m after this house is a track that branches off to the right. Take this and keep to it for the next 1.7km. The track is clearly defined and the route is easy to navigate. Towards the end of this section the track divides into two parallel routes, one slightly higher than the other. This only lasts for 100m and the two routes join back together. After this point, on the right a track can be seen on the hillside to the immediate right, this descends and eventually meets the track we are on. Take this, almost doubling back on the way one is walking. Keep to this track which will soon turn sharp left then slowly descends on the hillside of a valley. Keep to this until it junctions with a track on the far side of the valley. Turn right and follow this track up a small hill. Where a track diverges, keep to the left on the main track up the hill. At the top of the hill the Moni Ipseni monastery complex can be seen below.
Follow the road through the monastery compound. This leads out up a small hill and then starts the descent down to the Holy Cross Church. Return to Lardos retracing ones steps along the road.
Refreshments
Memories, Lardos View in Google Map
- Address
- The Square, Lardos
The Facebook page for this village centre bar states Wonderful bar that serves breakfast and lunch, open all day and night serving amazing cocktails situated in the square of Lardos, come join us with any music of your choice!
This really encapsulates this lively and friendly bar. Always a cheerful welcome and what better place to sit, have a drink and relax watching the world enfold before you, not matter what time of the day or evening.
On this occasion we dropped in for a quick cold beer before heading for a meal
Savvas Grill Restaurant View in Google Map
- Address
- Savvas Grill Restaurant
There is nothing better than finding a quiet typical Greek Taverna with Greek hosts and amazing food. This is an unassuming family run taverna on the junction of roads in Lardos, away from the square but still amid the hubbub of activity. The food is typical Greek cuisine and well worth every effort to seek out.
One of our favourite tavernas. There was a little bit of communication breakdown in the order which reulted in being served a dish that was even better than what we had been expecting. In future this traditional Greek pork dish will be something high on our list to order. The place never disappoints.
Summary of Document Changes
Last Updated: 2025-01-29
Was pleased to find you lovely report about this walk. We plan to visit in October not having been to Rhodes since 2017. We have driven around the lake many times during past trips as we love birdwatching & have had some great wildlife encounters there. We are wondering how the lake is faring and the water level looks understandably low. Hoping the circular road/track will be passable in October. Don’t think we are up for a 13 mile hike even in October temperatures. :-)
ReplyDeleteI really don't know about the circular route, whether it is surfaced or not. It is quite a hike up to the reservoir and hence the warnings. We try to walk or use public transport wherever possible but to do the perimeter of the reservoir would at least necessitate a hire car or taxi
DeleteIs it possible to go from Masari to the gadoura dam by a normal car?
ReplyDeleteI would not recommend this. The best way to get to the dam by road in a normal car is to take the road from Lardos to Laerma where there is a decent surfaced road that leads up to the dam
Delete