Kalathos to Lardos via the Mycenaean Cemetery ~ Griffmonsters Great Rhodes Walks

A walk from Kalathos to discover the Mycenaean Cemetery

This walk goes in search of the Mycenaean Cemetery that is located to the north of the village of Pylona. Six tombs were discovered in this area during construction and cultivation of the slopes of the hills above the village. The tombs are over 3000 years old and although all artefacts have been removed to a Archaeology Museum in Rhodes, it is worth the effort to connect back with some ancient history of the island, when the Mycenaean culture thrived. Even today traditions and customs can be dated back to such prehistoric times.

Kalathos to Lardos via the Mycenaean Cemetery - Essential Information

Walk Statistics:

Start location: Kalathos
End location: Lardos
Distance: km ( miles)
Total Gain: metre ( ft)
Total Descent: metre ( ft)
Min Height: metre ( ft)
Max Height: metre ( ft)
Walk Time:
Walk type: Linear
Walk Grade: Moderate
Terrain: Tracks

Maps:

The following maps and services can assist in navigating this route. There are links to printed maps and links to downloadable GPX route data for importing into navigational software and apps.

GPX Route File

Accommodation:

Pefkos Blue Studios, PefkosapartmentView in Google Map

Website: http://www.pefkosbluehotel.com/
Description: Pefkos Blue formerly known as Dimitri Studios, offering self catering apartment studios overlooking Pefkos village with splendid views across the bay. This is probably the best place in Pefkos if you want to be away from the village. Above the hubbub it offers unrivalled views and a quiet location.

Transport:

Details of public transport that is required for the walk

Rhodes Public Transport - Bus Service

Service Details: Gennadi to Rhodes Town - KTEL Rhodes Public bus service serving the East Coast of Rhodes linking Gennadi, Kiotari, Lardos, Pefkos, Kalathos, Archangelos, Afandou, Faliraki and Rhodes Town
Timetable: Available here

Route Verification Details

Date of Walk: 2018-10-09
Walk Time: 09:30 to 13:00
Walkers: Griffmonster, Kat
Weather Conditions: Bright sunshine

Walk Notes

One may have noticed that this there is another walk on this website that describes the route between Lardos and Kalathos. I have to emphasize that this is intentional and this specific route is in no way duplicating that route. The navigation documented here makes use of completely different tracks and keeps well away from the national road throughout. This route also visits the Mycenaean cemetery whereas the alternative walk concentrates on the churches and views.

The walk out of Kalathos ascends the hills above the village and then follows the contours around to the north of Pylona. This is fairly easy walking once one has performed the initial ascent which is over asphalt roads. At the top, just before one ventures out onto the broad well used dirt tracks there is a church to explore. Marked on maps as plainly the Main church of Kalathos it nonetheless does appear to have a specific dedication. A sign on the side of the church states ΙΕΡΟΣ ΝΑΟΣ ΤΑΞΙΑΡΧΩΝ ΚΑΔΑΘΟΥ which translates as IEROS TOWN OF TAXIARCHES. The word Taxiarchs refers to Archangels Michael and Gabriel in Greek Orthodoxy therefore this must be the Church of Archangels Michael and Gabriel. The doors are locked so one can only admire from outside.

The route is fairly easy to follow from Kalathos, a single dirt track meanders along the contours of the hills. There are panoramic views across the coast from up here and one does have to keep stopping, looking back and admiring this scene in all its beauty. The track is followed until Pylona village comes into view. The track then keeps to the rural boundaries of the village and the Mycenaean cemetery is located along this route, opposite a house on the left.

Like a lot of history on Rhodes, the Mycenaean cemetery is not readily advertised and it is difficult to locate unless one uses instructions from locals. I only came across this piece of history whilst researching information about the village of Pylona and then it was not a reference from a Greek or Rhodes dedicated website. The reference was a Polish YouTube video of all things. This 3 minute video moves through a series of still photos and Polish captions that have been created by a Polish couple who had stumbled upon the cemetery by accident. Using references and landmarks from the video and cross referencing this with maps and Google Earth, I was able to determine the most likely location of the site. The satellite images provided by Google depict a small area of scarred landscape to the north of Pylona along with some kind of man-made structure. Maybe a viewing platform? This prompted creating the route for this very walk.

Two roadside signs mark the cemetery location. Mycenaean Cemetery they declare in both English and Greek with one sign adding 14th-12th C BC. Behind the signs is a fenced off area with a partially constructed building, just a concrete shell to a first storey. This is what I had assumed to be a viewing platform. It was no such thing. Little else is viewable from this location. A gate appears to provide access to the area but on this occasion it was secured with padlock and chain. So how does one get in? A track leads off to the right and beyond is an olive grove. We walked around hoping to find some means of entry. The fence continued with no readily observable method of entry. Maybe this was not the site. Maybe the signs indicated it was further up the track. If it was the site then maybe it was now being developed. Questions, questions, and a sense of disappointment that we could not view what we had come to find.

As fortune would have it, the house opposite had some workmen repeatedly going to and from their van. We could only ask. The next time the lad came out to the van a question was posed, can we get into the Cemetery?. As expected the lad was Greek and was by no means fluent in English. After a few seconds of trying to understand the question he uttered I fetch owner and he duly sauntered off to return accompanied by a lady. Still expecting a Greek voice, it was somewhat startling when she spoke plain English and volunteered to personally take us to the cemetery escorted by her dog. She led the way back across the olive grove and to a section of fencing where an overlap had left a gap which one could easily squeeze through. We were in. Amazing!.

Admittedly there is little to see other than the entrances to the tombs that are dug out of the soft white limestone. These long straight walkways known as dromos lead down to the underground tombs which seem to descend under the partially constructed building. And that is all there is to see, the artefacts now all removed to the Archaeological Museum in Rhodes town. But the fact is that one is not here to view ancient ornaments but to take it all in, to witness something from thousands of years in the past, to connect to history, to soak in the atmosphere and pay homage to a long lost civilisation. And to that extent, this fulfilled all expectations. It was a well worth exercise in discovering this location. We were warned against attempting to gain access to the underground tombs, now somewhat overgrown with vegetation and possibly the lairs of snakes and spiders.

Thanks must go to this friendly local lady and all the information she provided about the cemetery. She was a perfect tour guide and amazingly hailed from the same part of the world as ourselves. East Anglia. Norwich to be precise. She had set up home in Pylona after working for years in the NHS with little thanks for her efforts, so together with her husband they relocated a couple of years prior to this meeting. Now life was at a more relaxed place and the reward was life itself. The house was being converted into apartments which would be rented out to holidaymakers who were looking for something more than the usual beach and pool vacation that most visitors to Rhodes seek. And what a better location for those who want to explore the rural side of Rhodes. A quiet village. Rural life. For those who want to spend their time on the island exploring the countryside, the wildlife and the fauna and are happy to spend their time in the peaceful laid-back life of Pylona then The Sparrows Nest is for you. And why the name The Sparrow Nest? That comes from the birds nest they found after moving into the house.

After a visit into the village for coffee the route then takes us back out onto more dirt tracks to head down to Lardos. Heading out through the olive groves a chap heads towards us in a battered old blue pickup. The mans age shows in his cheerful weathered face. We did not immediately acknowledge him and he sounded his horn and yelled kalimera through the open window. Kalimera! Good morning! What a brilliant old chap. All he wanted was recognition from these two strangers who were traipsing across his countryside. He smiled back at our response. Kalimera!

The route heads out of Pylona passing by smallholdings and olive groves. One such item is bounded by a fence and a cuddly toy gorilla grasps across the wire fence of the gate. The route then starts descending down to the national road. Now this part is one of those where it was uncertain whether there was a way onward. This is the beauty about exploring Rhodes. With no definitive maps it is always an exploration and in this instance the Google satellite images did appear to suggest a route onward. Worse case scenario we would have to walk 700m along the main road. This was not required, there is a path on the opposite side of the road and although it is not well defined through the olive grove below, it soon becomes clear.

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church at Pylona

Directions

The route climb into the hills above Kalathos then follows the contours to beyond Pylona where tracks descend down to Lardos

From the main bus stop in Kalathos, walk to the end of the village in the direction of Rhodes Town. On the left is a petrol station followed by a road leading off to the left. Take this. It soon starts to ascend. After 450m there is a sharp bend around to the left in a gulley and the road then ascends another 10m. Directly ahead is the main church of Kalathos. After the church take the track leading off to the right that passes in front of some apartments. Continue to the end of the apartments and onto the dirt track beyond which bears off to the left. Make sure to select the top higher track is as two tracks branch off here. This is a broad track that appears to be well used by vehicles judging by the tracks in the dust. Keep to this ignoring all other side tracks.

After some 1.3km the track rounds a right bend against a steep hillside which appears to have suffered recent falls. The track continues around and directly ahead is a house on a hill. Take the first track on the right keeping the house to ones left. Continue along this track for another 0.5km ignoring all other tracks until it meets two other tracks that branch off on the left. Keep virtually straight ahead passing a smallholding on the right. After a further 150m there is a track on the right with a house on the left. A sign at the junction announces the Mycenaean Cemetery which is blocked off by a fence. Take the right hand track then cut across the olive grove on the left back to the fence where there is a gap to enable entry.

Returning to the main track, take the left turn down the side of the house, then proceed directly across at the first crossroads, and right onto the main street of Pylona. On the left hand side is the Sweet memories Bakery. Continue ahead from the Bakery ignoring the turning immediately on the right, but taking the next right. Turn left at the bottom then after 50m take the track on the right. After 275m cross straight over the intersecting track then bear around to the left with the church on the left. Where this junctions with another track turn right.

Keep on this track for 750m where it junctions with another track. Turn left, almost turning back on onself. After 200m bear left at the junction and the track starts to descend. After a further 500m the track junctions. Either take the left which steeply descends on a rough track or take the right which passes around a hairpin bend and meets the first option. Continue down the hill to where the track emerges onto the main road.

Cross the road and directly opposite the is a rough piece of concrete that enables one to descend down to an olive grove. The track is not clear for a short distance here. One needs to bear right and follow the olive grove around, letting the trees symmetric layout guide the way. After 100m a clear and definitive track emerges out of the olive grove. Follow this which leads out onto a road. Turn right and continue along the road until it meets the main road. Cross directly over and follow the road into Lardos village.

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Mycenaean Cemetery

Refreshments

Sweet Memories, Pylona View in Google Map

Address: Main Street, Pylona

A quiet bakery on the main road through Pylona. The sign outside reads Γλυκιες αναμνησεις which is Glikies anamnisis in latinised alphabet and translates to the English Sweet memories. A great place to sit, drink coffee, eat pastries and watch the world go by

Review

This is a friendly little Greek bakery where locals sit and talk, where the world goes by over a cup of coffee, where one can sit, watch and let ones thoughts melt with the scenes from the open window

Memories, Lardos View in Google Map

Address: The Square, Lardos

Popular Taverna at the heart of Lardos.

Review

Memories is always a good place to sit and relax and watch the world go by. The barman always remembers us here and these days will ask of our adventures out in the wild of Rhodes. Indiana Jones, he eventually recollected the name that seemed appropriate to us.

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Mycenaean Cemetery

Features

The Mycenaean Cemetery at AspropiliaView in Google Map

The Mycenaean Cemetery at Pylona is not very well publicized although it does appear on some of the better detailed maps of Rhodes and there is a sign for the Cemetery on the main road past Pylona although the motorist is then left with no more directions. Considering the site is alongside a road that is no more than a dirt track then it is a location that few motorists would encounter merely by passing through. The specific location of the cemetery is to the north of the village of Pylona, on the southern slopes of the hills that rise above the village in an area referred to in most publications, and indeed in the archaeological report, as Aspropilia although such a district never seems to appear on any map.

The Cemetery consists of six burial chambers from the Mycenaean period of history, also referred to as the Bronze age, with this specific location dating from the Late Helladic period from the 14th to 12th centuries BC and covering a period of eight generations. The discovery was made in the Spring of 1993 when the land was being developed. Construction of a building known as the Vasilakis House had begun with its concrete shell for the first storey completed whilst the levelling of an adjacent terrace for an olive grove was also being undertaken. During the groundwork a digger scooped the earth to reveal a hollow underneath which was the initial discovery of a tomb. The workers dug down to investigate further and discovered 20 ancient vases, a cleaver and a whetstone, an implement for sharpening tools. Further digging revealed another tomb and four additional vases. This was obviously a major find and the Greek Archaeology Service was called in.

An immediate Prohibition Order was served on the area to prevent further unauthorised work on the site. This order is still in place to this day which means the partially constructed building will permanently remain in such a state. The archaeologists then carried out a thorough investigation over a period of three years during which numerous trenches were dug to determine the extent of the cemetery and the area painstakingly excavated, each find being meticulously recorded, identified and logged. The discoveries were amazing and revealing, giving an insight into life and death from over 3000 years in the past. All discoveries have subsequently been removed from the site and are now held at the Archaeological Museum of Rhodes. The site remains fenced off and the tombs left in their excavated state although the ground is now pretty much overgrown. The number of finds is extensive and includes

12 jugs
4 spouted bowls
2 ladels
28 kyklikes which are circular drinking vessels
2 bowls
2 cups
2 mugs
1 feeding bottle
2 kraters, an ancient Greek vessel used for diluting wine with water
23 stirrup jars used for storing oil or wine
1 flask
2 alabasta jars - so called as they are made from a finely granular variety of gypsum known as alabasta
13 piriform jars, pear shaped pottery storage vessels
2 basket vases
2 rhyta - drinking vessels typically having the form of an animal's head or a horn
1 cooking vessel
5 braziers
2 torch holders
various items of jewellery and ornamentation including beads and necklaces

There was indications that a number of the tombs had been partially plundered with evidence implicating Roman excavation including the burial of a Roman man to the north of a collapsed tomb, covered by four large tiles which was the customary Roman burial method. A bronze coin dating from the reign of Licinius I (308-324AD) was also discovered close to the body. There is the possibility that other tombs may once have occupied the hillside but the area has suffered from both natural erosion and levelling for cultivation and construction.

The tombs were all of similar design with a main chamber accessed by a long wide dromos, the name for a ceremonial walkway that gave access to the tomb. The tombs were cut in a line around the slope of the hill from the south west to the north east with each tomb orientated in a north-south direction. One tomb included two side chambers and another had a single side chamber which indicated these as family tombs that may have spanned several generations.

Some of the tombs included a bier cut out of the rock, which is the name given to a platform on which the corpse would be placed. Others had a wooden bier on an unprepared floor on which the corpse would have probably been carried into the tomb. The finds of stirrup jars and alabasta that were placed within the tombs would have contained oil for washing and anointing the dead body, a common ritual of purification at funerals. There was also evidence of shroud decoration with faïence beads of various materials including gold. Remains of the funerary band were found on the skull and would have originally been fastened around chin jaw and skull.

In total the tombs revealed the skeletons of 10 men, 10 women, 10 children and one infant. A mystery is the fact that seven of the children were found in a single tomb whereas a more even distribution would be expected as all evidence indicated this to be a parochial cemetery.

Much can be deduced from these finds some of which relate to modern day Greek customs. In Mycenaean culture the afterlife was a reflection of life on earth. A place where the dead would participate in an afterlife alongside their ancestors. The corpse would be lovingly washed and dressed in the deceased's best clothes embroidered with jewellery and gold. Food would be placed in the tomb to assist the dead on their journey to the afterlife. Personal items of the deceased would be placed alongside the body. Organic materials such as clothing and baskets of food have clearly not survived but the fact that such food jars are found suggests this was the case.

It was found that personal items close to the skeletal remains were intentionally broken, such as drinking vessels and vases missing their handles. Such a practice in a funerary context signifies a symbolic action where the personal belongings of the deceased are killed since they are no longer of any use to the person in this world.

Drinking vessels were found either inside the chamber or broken close to the tomb entrance which suggests that a toasting ceremony had been performed, where the vessel would be smashed, terminating the ceremony when the tomb could be sealed. Such traditions as breaking kitchen ware at the grave side is still practised in Greek society today.

All of this bears significance to modern day Greek society and traditions in the Greek Orthodox Church which are remnants from prehistoric rituals of the pre-Christian past. Such examples of existing traditions are leaving kolyva, a dish of boiled wheat at the grave of the deceased on the third, ninth, 40th and annual anniversaries of the burial. There are also ceremonies in the modern day liturgical calendar where offerings are made to ancestors.

The Archaeological report for the Cemetery investigation provides a summary of what may have been a typical Mycenaean funeral, based upon the finds and the connection to modern day customs:

a burial wake would have been held in the village at the deceased home, with death songs being sung. Preparations would have been made to obtain the drink offerings and the sacrificial animals for the burial feast of the Meal of Separation.- a tradition which continues today not only in Greece, but in many contemporary societies. The corpse would have been placed on a wooden bier or carrying frame, borne in the funeral procession by the dead man's relatives, with their heads perhaps covered, and followed by other mourners. The procession might have preceded by a chanting priest with acolytes carrying incense burners and musicians playing, drum, pipe or lyre music, and a torch bearer leading the way. Torch holders and incense burners have been found in two of the tombs

The report is extensive and runs to 260 pages and is well worth reading for those interested in this piece of history.

References

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views to the coast

Gallery

Below are a selection of images taken from from the photo album for this walk. Feel free to browse through these or click on an image to view a larger version in the Gallery.