Afandou to Kolympia via Paramythia Monastery ~ Griffmonsters Great Rhodes Walks

A country ramble to take in the Paramythia Monastery

A simple and easy ramble to visit the working Paramythia Monastery. The route takes tracks across country from the village of Afandou to the road that leads up to the monastery that nestles in the low hills. One will not be disappointed by this richly decorated monastery and one can take the serenity and peacefulness to rest before the final stretch to the crossroads at Kolympia, having to cross the dry river bed of the Loutanis river where the extensive nine arched bridge has been washed away in recent years.

Afandou to Kolympia via Paramythia Monastery - Essential Information

Walk Statistics:

Start location: Afanfdou
End location: Kolympia
Distance: km ( miles)
Total Gain: metre ( ft)
Total Descent: metre ( ft)
Min Height: metre ( ft)
Max Height: metre ( ft)
Walk Time:
Walk type: Linear
Walk Grade: Moderate
Terrain: Tracks, some with asphalt surface.

Maps:

The following maps and services can assist in navigating this route. There are links to printed maps and links to downloadable GPX route data for importing into navigational software and apps.

GPX Route File

Accommodation:

Pefkos Blue Studios, PefkosapartmentView in Google Map

Website: http://www.pefkosbluehotel.com/
Description: Pefkos Blue formerly known as Dimitri Studios, offering self catering apartment studios overlooking Pefkos village with splendid views across the bay. This is probably the best place in Pefkos if you want to be away from the village. Above the hubbub it offers unrivalled views and a quiet location.

Transport:

Details of public transport that is required for the walk

Rhodes Public Transport - Bus Service

Service Details: Gennadi to Rhodes Town - KTEL Rhodes Public bus service serving the East Coast of Rhodes linking Gennadi, Kiotari, Lardos, Pefkos, Kalathos, Archangelos, Afandou, Faliraki and Rhodes Town
Timetable: Available here

Route Verification Details

Date of Walk: 2018-10-07
Walk Time: 09:30 to 13:00
Walkers: Griffmonster, Kat
Weather Conditions: Bright sunshine

Walk Notes

This is an easy walk and even without the luxury of a GPS navigation aid, the directions below should be sufficient to guide the would be rambler along the route. Although this is a linear walk, it's two ends connect using the KTEL bus service. There is a limited service into the village but it is only a short walk from the stops on the main road.

One is never far from civilisation on this walk and unfortunately there are some unwelcome reminders of urbanisation with a few areas where fly-tipping appears to have taken place. But let that not detract from the views and aromas of the typical Rhodes rural scenery adorned with olive groves and small holdings with fruit trees and livestock as well as the obligatory guard dog that appears to be all bark and not much else. Whereas one would expect a cacophony of noise from such captive animals, on this island there appears to be a code of conduct. First the dog barks. Then the duck quacks. Then the cock crows. Then the turkey gobbles. Each performing their vocal contribution in the clear silence then shutting up to allow the next their few seconds of recognition. And this happens at each small holding. Uncanny. Back home in England passing by any area populated with domestic animals results in an avalanche of noise as one prompts the next which prompts several others resulting in a chain reaction. Not here. Everything has its rightful place. Every animal has its moment to speak.

The Paramythia monastery is visible from some distance away, its bell tower poking above the trees on the lower hills that dominate the landscape. The route comes very close to it but there is no direct access and one has to navigate down to the monastery road in order to gain access. It should be noted that until recently there was a track that led directly into the monastery but this is now barred with a sturdy metal gate and fences on the land either side. This is unfortunate as it would provide a more circular route in and out of the monastery rather than having to retrace ones steps as is the case here.

The monastery is a working place of worship and devotion. Monks reside here although they appear to keep a very low profile, or it may have been they were just attending prayers during our visit. The entrance is through the gate by the side of the bell tower. The interior arch under the bell tower contains sashes and gowns for visitors to make themselves respectable for viewing the holy place. Do dress accordingly here. It is all part of the rich experience. Then take in the atmosphere, the peace and serenity of the monastery.

The monastery chapel sits centrally in the courtyard, its door facing the bell tower. The door opens in silence. No creaks of hinges. No groans from heavy oak. Pure silence. And one closes the door in a similar manner, letting the catch drop in place with a soft click before pacing slowly forward into the cool and peaceful sacred domain. Ones eyes are treated to a barrage of brightly coloured painted frescos and holy icons. Walls and ceilings are all adorned in vibrant depictions of the saints. The artwork is resplendent, its colours jumping out in their vividness and mesmerizing the eyes. To the right of the carved wooden iconostasis is the fresco that the monastery is named after, the Theotokos Paramythia, the Virgin Mary and the Christ child. In front of the iconostasis are Candles set in gilt, ornate candlesticks. Above is a circular tower, similarly adorned with frescos that has one cricking ones neck to take it all in.

For a moment time almost stops as seconds run into minutes, the solitude and silence mesmerizing. Humbling. Peaceful. Ones eyes slowly inspect the scene calmly turning around to survey every inch of the artwork that covers the walls and ceilings. Then as ones head turns nearly 180° to view behind something startles. A shock as ones eyes meet with the unexpected. Such a sight that ones mouth drops open and a gulp issues where a scream would have been more appropriate. A moment of astonishment, awe and outright fright. For there before me, stands a figure. Motionless. Looking directly into my very being. Vibrant red hair as vivid as the frescos. Was this a vision? A visitation? A Saint? An angel with a prophetic message? My eyes focused. This figure was real. Brilliant red hair springing out from her head in all directions. An ageing face. A similarity between the commercial burger chains icon of Ronald McDonald and Crystal Tips from the UK children's animation series. It was a tourist. She stayed silent. I departed, praising the Gods that I had not been called to account and had merely encountered another tourist.

In order to get to the bus stop at Kolympia there is the Loutanis river to cross. Like most Rhodes rivers this is nothing more than a dry river bed for most of the year. The modern Rhodes east coast highway crosses by means of a modern concrete bridge. Behind this was the location of the original bridge. That seems to have been washed away some time in the early 20th century and replaced by a bridge further upstream where the channel is somewhat narrower as depicted on a 1935 Italian map. A track leads from the monastery road to this bridge but this bridge has now also been carried away by the cascading winter waters, its piers tipped and turned by the torrents. This must have been a recent collapse as there are photos of the intact bridge from 2007 (see photo here). There is a track across the river bed which leads up the opposite bank and provides one with a full view of the bridge remains. One can only marvel at the force of the waters that caused such destruction and devastation.

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Destroyed bridge

Directions

This route follows tracks from Afandou village cutting across country through to the Paramythia Monastery before navigating across the dry river bed of the Loutanis river.

From Afandou village centre head south on the main thoroughfare. The road crosses the river and turns sharp left at which point take the lane on the right. After 100m turn left onto a track. Follow this track ignoring all other side tracks for 1km until there is an industrial unit on the left with wasteground on the right alongside an asphalt track. Take this track and follow this for a further 1.2km as it heads up the hills and turns into no more than a dirt track. Where a definite track leads off to the right, take this which leads down the hill and past a cement works. Note that the works is not visible from the turn as it is some 500m down the track. This is the only main junction along this track and it cannot be missed.

The track turns back to an asphalt road which leads further down the hill and around a right hand bend then makes a sharp left turn where a dirt track leads straight ahead. Take the dirt track. Keep to this for 400m, ignoring the first track on the left. The track will the slowly bend round to the right and there is another track on the left. Take this and follow this through to the road.

Turn right on the road and follow this round keeping bearing right. The road leads up a hill under pines trees and the monastery is located at the top.

Return down the road and continue ahead where one joined it. A little further on the road bends to the left at which point there is a track on the right. Take this and follow this through until it meets the former bridge which has been demolished, with only the first pier on either side still standing. Follow a rough track alongside the banks of the dry river bed. After 100m a track leads down the bank and then runs diagonal across the river bed to emerge at the far side of the bridge. Continue onto the road, turn left and follow the road to the junction. There are bus stops at the road junction.

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route out of Afandou

Refreshments

Ristretto Cafe, Kolimbia View in Google Map

Address: Kolumpion-Archipolis, Kolimbia

Roadside cafe offering the usual Greek snacks and drinks such as cheese pies, sandwiches, croissants, chips, biscuits and coffee

Review

The cafe is right next to the bus stop which makes it very convenient place to have a coffee when waiting for the bus

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Views of the coast

Features

Paramythia MonasteryView in Google Map

The Paramythia Monastery is a modern construction completed in 1994 and officially dedicated by Archimandrite Seraphim Parcharides. The title Archimandrite is probably unfamiliar to English ears and therefore requires a little more explanation. The term is primarily used in the Eastern Orthodox and Eastern Catholic churches and is derived from the the Greek archi meaning highest and mandra meaning monastery and is used to refer to the superior Abbot whom a Bishop appoints as the senior head of an important monastery. The title has been in use since the 4/5th century and traditionally requires the Archimandrite to remain celibate.

The monastery dedication is to Our Lady of Paramythia. Now this is more than a dedication, it is the name of an icon which is housed within the monastery chapel. An Icon of the blessed mother Mary and Christ child in which the mother clutches the childs hand, an unusual depiction. A miraculous icon. In fact, the icon housed on this site is only a copy of the actual miraculous icon which is displayed in the Great Monastery of Vatopedi situated on the peninsula known as Mount Athos in north eastern Greece.

We need to go back the the 4th century to understand the history of the icon. It was during this century that the son of Roman Emperor Theodosius the Great managed to fall off a ship at sea. Not the best thing to do. Fortunately for him he was miraculously rescued by the Theotokos (a title of Mary, mother of Jesus, used by Eastern Christianity), and carried unharmed to a shore where he was later found sleeping in a bush. In gratitude for the miraculous event, the Emperor founded the monastery and named it Vatopedi, literally translated as the bush of the child. One assumes that the icon was created at the same time although some websites claim it is of 14th century origin. If this was the case it would exclude the next miracle which was attributed to the icon when the depicted holy figure ushered a warning to the Abbott of impending attack by pirates in AD807. The warning was heeded and the monastery defended. A miracle.

The copy that resides at Paramythia was bought to the monastery by the Abbot of Vatopedi, Archimandrite Ephraim, in 2007 and is placed on the right hand side of the iconostasis, the term for the carved wooden partition mounted with icons that separates the nave from the sanctuary in the church, or katholikon as it is termed in Greek. The whole of the kathoiken is richly decorated in frescos.

In addition to the central katholikon, the monastery has a four story bell tower which acts as the gateway into the courtyard. Either side of the courtyard are two story buildings and beyond and below is a separate courtyard that is out of bounds to the public where a second chapel is dedicated to Agios Antonios is situated.

Archimandrite Anthimos Palioglou heads an eight man brotherood of monks who perform their ritual daily exercise of prayers as well as attending to the needs of visiting pilgrims. A shop purveying gifts of the usual monastic paraphernalia provides an income for the monastery.

References

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heading directly to the monastery

Gallery

Below are a selection of images taken from from the photo album for this walk. Feel free to browse through these or click on an image to view a larger version in the Gallery.