Platania and the source of the Makaris River ~ Griffmonsters Great Rhodes Walks

View overlooking the valley where the Makaris River flows

An exploration to find the source of the Makaris River

A 9.3 km walk around the area west of Platania to discover the source of the Makaris River that flows down to Malona and reaches the sea at Haraki. This includes a visit and lunch in the charming village of Platania, which is always worth the time to to explore.

Walk Statistics

Start location: Platania
Distance: km ( miles)
Total Gain: metre ( ft)
Total Descent: metre ( ft)
Min Height: metre ( ft)
Max Height: metre ( ft)
Walk Time:
Walk Grade: easy
Terrain: track and road

Maps:

The following maps and services can assist in navigating this route. There are links to printed maps and links to downloadable GPX route data for importing into navigational software and apps.

GPX Route File

Walk Notes

Introduction

Not all of our walks go to plan. Some fail when tracks or paths are blocked by fences, others when routes have been washed away or become impassable. On this occasion a small mountain stream had turned the track into a deep muddy quagmire. In general such expeditions are not worth writing up, although encounters like these are never entirely wasted — experience is gained and knowledge of the area improves.

This expedition began in a similar fashion. The original plan was to walk from Apollona across open countryside to the Makaris River and then continue on to Platania. However, the route descended into a gully filled with deep, waterlogged mud which made further progress impossible. The only option was to retreat to Apollona along the same track.

Not wishing to abandon the day’s walk entirely, we decided that the next best option was to use the road to reach Platania and begin the exploration from there.

The route described here therefore covers only the section between Platania and the tracks leading down to the Makaris River. Anyone wishing to complete the full route from Apollona would need to walk the road between the two villages. Fortunately it is not particularly busy, although doing so would add roughly eight kilometres to the distance described here. There may be alternatives and further investigation will be conducted for possible future walks.

The Route

There is some road walking involved when walking from Platania, but it has to be said that anyone navigating along roads in such glorious terrain will see sights that are missed when travelling in a vehicle.

After about 700 m from the roundabout the track leaves the road., which is easily identified by a yellow signpost declaring ΑΠΑΓΟΡΕΥΕΤΑΙ TO ΚΥΝΗΓΙ (HUNTING IS PROHIBITED) on the left, with a smaller dark sign under a tree announcing ΚΡΗΤΙΚΟΥ 199 on the right. This literally translates as CRETAN 199. This may reference a plot of land that is identified by a family name and plot number. There is a little space beside the road where it may be possible to park a car without obstructing the track.

Track that leads away from the Platania to Apollona road

Many streams drain down from the slopes of the Profitis Ilias massif and there are several points alongside the road where such flows are noticeable. These, plus others in the area, combine to form the mighty Makaris river. The nearest of these streams is some 200m beyond the track. During rains the water will cascade down the rocky side, pass under the road and then flow parallel to the track that we are taking.

After 0.8 km the stream crosses the track. In early October, after a very warm year, there is little in the way of water. Even so, the rocky bed and the rich vegetation around its course provides clear evidence that water frequently flows.

The track leads further south, the stream widens and soon there are signs that a significant amount of water must course down here judging by the eroded banks. Around each and every turn there is a different view of this water course as it negotiates its way down the landscape.

This is quite addictive in seeing what comes next and it is up to the walker as to how far to continue. By 1.5 km the stream turns to a wide river bed with the track is still following its course. After approximately 2.5 km the track starts to criss-cross the river after which the river bed becomes the principle route to navigate along.

Maps and satellite images suggest that further tracks reach the river between about 3 km and 5.7 km downstream. Beyond this point the river begins to enter the dramatic section that eventually forms the Xetrypitis Gorge. Obviously tracks and paths close or crossing the course of the river may change or become impassable after heavy rains.

On this occasion we got down to where the river opened up into a broad course, somewhere around 2 km down the track. With the additional walking from Apollona and the initial false start caused by the blocked up track, this resulted in an 18 km hike. There may be further adventures in the future, building on the knowledge gained. More research has found further possibilities where other tracks from the Laerma road lead to the river further down stream. This would require a car to access these more remote locations, but it is a worthy consideration for the future. Watch this space!

Return

Return for this route retracing ones steps back up stream, although rather than taking the track to the Apollona road, there is another track that leads up to the Malona road. Viewing the landscape from the opposite direction always results in seeing things missed on the way out. Then there is a short road walk, up to the roundabout and around to the village of Platania.

Platania provides the very popular Taverna Perama for a spot of lunch. This walk was undertaken on a Sunday and it is traditional for Greek families to dine out on Sunday lunchtimes, with this taverna being a popular choice. A very full complement of customers made for a busy, but happy and pleasurable experience.

Directions

The starting point for this walk is the track on the right which is approx 0.7 km from the roundabout where the Malona and Apollona road junctions. This is easily identifiable by the yellow signpost at the start of the track

Take the track. Avoid all other merging and diverging tracks. The dry bed of the stream will soon present itself.
The stream is initially on the right, but then crosses to the left. Keep following this.
The stream broadens. Keep following for as long as you like, eventually after 2 km down the track it broadens but further exploration can be undertaken if required
Return by retracing the river bed. 650 m before reaching the road there is a junction, where a track leads off to the right. Take this, it will twist around before making a fairly steep ascent up to the Malona road.
Follow the road into Platania

Directions

Take the track. Avoid all other merging and diverging tracks. The dry bed of the stream will soon present itself.
The stream is initially on the right, but then crosses to the left. Keep following this.
The stream broadens. Keep following for as long as you like, eventually after 2 km down the track it broadens but further exploration can be undertaken if required
Return by retracing the river bed. 650 m before reaching the road there is a junction, where a track leads off to the right. Take this, it will twist around before making a fairly steep ascent up to the Malona road.
Follow the road into Platania

Features

Platania Village

Platania is a small and peaceful village in the mountainous interior of the Greek island of Rhodes, located about 38 kilometres southwest of Rhodes Town by road. Set on the slopes of the Prophet Elias mountain range and surrounded by forests, valleys, and grazing land, the village sits at an altitude of just over 300 metres. With only a few hundred residents, Platania retains the atmosphere of a traditional Rhodian mountain settlement where agriculture, livestock farming, and small-scale tourism still shape daily life.

The name “Platania” comes from the many plane trees (platania in Greek) that grow in the area, nourished by the relatively abundant water found in this part of the island. These tall trees often form the natural centre of village life in Greece, providing shade for small squares where locals gather to talk, drink coffee, and play backgammon. The landscape around Platania is lush compared with much of Rhodes, with green hillsides, olive groves, and pastures where flocks of sheep and goats are commonly seen.

The village sits in an amphitheatre-like layout on the hillside, surrounded by dense vegetation and abundant fresh water. The presence of these natural springs has long made the area ideal for sheep and goat herding, a practice that still defines much of the local character. Wandering through the village, visitors find cobblestone paths shaded by towering plane trees, rustic homes, and a countryside that feels untouched by time. The serene environment has made Platania a favourite among locals seeking a quiet meal in one of its few traditional tavernas.

The church dedicated to Saint George (Agios Georgios)

Historically, Platania developed as a rural community connected to the agricultural life of central Rhodes. Like many mountain villages on the island, it was relatively isolated until modern roads were built in the twentieth century. Nearby settlements such as Apollona and Eleousa share similar histories tied to farming, forestry, and herding. During the period when Rhodes was under Italian rule (1912–1947), small administrative buildings were constructed in the area, traces of which can still be seen today.

Although Platania is not associated with a single famous legend, local folklore reflects the broader traditions of rural Rhodes. Stories passed down through generations often involve spirits of the mountains, hidden springs, and the protective saints of village churches. In the past, shepherds travelling through the forests around Prophet Elias were said to leave offerings or light candles at small roadside shrines to ensure safe journeys. Such customs echo the deep connection between the people of the Rhodian interior and the natural landscape that surrounds their villages.

Today Platania remains a quiet and authentic corner of Rhodes. Far from the busy coastal resorts, it offers a glimpse of island life shaped by nature, tradition, and community—where time seems to move a little more slowly under the shade of the plane trees that gave the village its name.

Images