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Monday, 3 November 2025

The Ancient Monastery of Prophet Abhakum

The Ancient Monastery of Prophet Abhakum

Venture off Rhodes’ beaten paths to hike Kymissala and discover the hidden Monastery of Prophet Abhakum.

Hidden among the pine forests of western Rhodes, the Ancient Monastery of Prophet Abhakum rewards those who walk a little further off the beaten path. The short trail through Kymissala’s pine-covered hills leads not only to a striking Byzantine chapel with twin stairways and intriguing folklore, but also through layers of history — from ancient ruins to medieval legends that still echo across the island’s quiet slopes.

The Ancient Monastery of Prophet Abhakum - Essential Information

Walk Statistics (calculated from GPX):

  • Start location: Track near Monolithos 
  • Distance:   km (  miles)
  • Total Gain:   metre (  ft)
  • Total Descent:   metre (  ft)
  • Min Height:   metre (  ft)
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  • Walk Time:  
  • Walk Grade: easy
  • Terrain: Easy track

Maps:

The following maps and services can assist in navigating this route. There are links to printed maps and links to downloadable GPX route data for importing into navigational software and apps.

 

Route Verification Details

  • Date of Walk: 07/10/2022
  • Walk Time: 10:30:00 to 13:00:00
  • Walkers: Griff, Kat
  • Weather Conditions: Warm, blue skies, some clouds

Walk Notes

The start of the track that leads down to the Monastery of Prophet Abhakum, the sign showing that the research as to its location was correct

A Chance Discovery

After staying in Monolithos during the autumn of 2023, I began researching the walks we had undertaken and, by chance, came across images of the Ancient Monastery of Prophet Abhakum — an unusual chapel with two windows on opposite sides and exterior steps leading up to each window. This curious architecture was accompanied by folklore claiming it was customary to enter the chapel through the windows. However, there were no details about its exact location.

On subsequent visits to the village, despite asking around, no one could provide any further information about its location. From the landscape, I guessed it was probably somewhere in the area known as Kymissala, an extensive forested region on the western slopes of Mount Akramatis, renowned for its scattered ruins of an ancient civilization. It was purely by accident, while researching walking routes in 2025, that I came across a likely location on an updated map. This also matched what I could discern from satellite images, although these were far from clear.

The track from Zoodochos Pigi

Searching for the Hidden Monastery

In October 2025, we hired a car to visit places and trails not accessible by public transport. This gave us the opportunity to explore the area near Kymissala, on the western side of Mount Akramatis. There are two ways to reach this area.

  • From the chapel area known as Zoodochos Pigi (Ζωοδόχος Πηγή) — roughly translated as Life-Giving Spring, and often a name for churches dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Drive north from Siana where there is a road on the left which leads down to this chapel that overlooks a wooded hill known as Hagios Fokas which contains the ancient settlement of Marmarounia and the ruins of the Acropolis of Kymissala. From there, a rough track that is signposted to the Necropolis of Kymissala, runs about 3 km (1.8 miles) through to the road behind Akramatis, where the track to Prophet Abhakum begins.
  • From Monolithos — Drive through the village and follow the road around the back of the mountain. About 7 km (4.3 miles) along, you’ll find a track leading down to the site. The road is narrow in places with steep drops, and herds of goats often block the way, waiting for the farmer to deliver a pickup truck full of hay — a familiar sight from our earlier walks to Kymissala Tower. At the fork, a weather-beaten sign reading ΠΡΟΦΉΤΗΣ ΑΒΒΑΚΟΎΜ marks the turnoff. There’s ample space to park beside the road without blocking traffic or the track. This is where the trail begins.

The trail itself is fairly short — just over 2 km (1.3 miles) from the road to the monastery — making it about 4 km in total for a round trip, or 14 km if walking from Monolithos and back, and 10 km from Zoodochos Pigi and back. It is therefore within hiking distance from either side, though much of the road walking is rather uneventful. The wider area, however, is full of ancient ruins scattered across the landscape, and it is well worth exploring some of these also.

The forest trail that leads the way

The Trail Through the Pines

The clearly defined track descends about 40 m through pine forest. Heavy rain showers in the preceding days had left the ground soft, and the pine needles covering the path clung to the loamy earth — and the mixture then embedded itself to the soles of our boots. By the time we reached the end of the forest, I felt as though I had gained 15 cm in height from the build-up of forest floor debris beneath my shoes!

The Plain of Basilikos with the ruins of the Settlement of Basilikos on the hill directly ahead

The Plain of Basilikos

At the end of the forest track stands a gate tied with rope. It is easy to undo — just remember the knot so you can retie it afterward. Beyond lies a grassy plain interwoven with herbs and shrubs. The track continues along the eastern perimeter of this open space, known as the Plain of Basilikos (Βασιλικού), derived from the Greek word meaning royal or kingly.

When the French traveller and archaeologist Victor Guérin passed through this area in 1854, he incorrectly linked the name Basilikos to a supposed royal palace of the kings of Kamiros. This gave rise to a local legend about the treasures of King Kymisaleu. Later, in the early 20th century, Italian archaeologist Amedeo Maiuri put an end to such speculation.

The closest we got to the ruins of the Settlement of Basilikos, a fence barring the way ahead

Modern archaeological research has since uncovered more accurate information. On the north side of the plain stands a hill full of ruins known as the Settlement of Basilikos (Οικισμός των Βασιλικών), which dates from the 7th–6th centuries BC. It is the largest of seven settlement sites discovered in the Kymissala area, featuring remains of domestic quarters, a shrine, a tower, and parts of a perimeter wall.

Sadly, the site is fenced off to protect it. Centuries of looting, quarrying by the Knights of St. John, and modern roadworks have all damaged the area. I’ve seen photos from those who have managed to walk around the site, so there may be a small opening in the fence somewhere. Something for later investigation.

Ancient Monastery of Prophet Abhakum

Finding the Monastery

Back to the purpose of my search — the Ancient Monastery of Prophet Abhakum.

Returning to the main goal of our journey — the discovery of the Ancient Monastery of Prophet Abhakum — we continued along the track which disappeared into the woods at the far end of Basilikos. The monastery soon appeared in a small clearing. Its distinctive dome and twin stone stairways were unmistakable; we celebrated quietly, delighted to have found it.

With backpacks disgorged to the ground it was time to take it all in. The most notable thing on the front of the building is a stone above the door that contains a bold inscription:

ΔΩΡΕΑ ΕΠΙΣΚΕΥΗΣ ΒΑΣΙΛΕΙΟ ΘΕΩΝΗΣ ΣΑΡΗ. 1960.
Donation for repair by Vasileio Theonis Sarri, 1960.
The door to the monastery with the inscribed stone above it

The door was then opened. Inside, the chapel is humble but full of character. At the far end stands an icon of the Prophet Abhakum. Two sets of stone steps climb the side walls, leading to shuttered window openings. Beneath one stairway, a few small icons rest on a ledge — one bearing handwritten list of names, perhaps a local family who had placed the icon there.

Opening one of the shutters and then proceeding outside, I decided it only seemed right to attempt the traditional entry through the window. Having only learned the basic folklore, I didn’t fully grasp the correct procedure, and despite various attempts to pass from exterior to interior, I failed rather unceremoniously.

The exterior stone steps
The interior stone steps
An attempt to follow the tradition. This demonstrates the scale and how small the ledge is to enable pulling oneself through and then turning and standing to go down the steps.

The Tradition and Its Meaning

The monastery is usually described as ancient, though I have not found a definitive date for its construction. It likely dates back to the Byzantine period of Rhodes (330–1309 AD). The only firm reference I have found is in an academic discussion of Byzantine medieval architecture, which compares its dome to those of the two Churches of St. George in Lindos. According to tourist sources, those churches date to the 12th and 14th centuries, suggesting this chapel may be from a similar late Byzantine period.

The dedication to the Prophet Abhakum is a transliteration of the Hebrew name Habakkuk, one of the twelve minor prophets of the Old Testament. The name is pronounced Απακου (Apakos) in the local dialect. In Greek Orthodox tradition, Habakkuk is known for his miracles related to healing the hard of hearing and the deaf. This miraculous association forms the basis of the local folklore tied to this chapel, particularly concerning children.

The humble interior with the icon of the Prophet Abhakum

According to the full tradition, one must climb the steps on the left side of the building, crawl headfirst through the window, and descend the interior steps. Then, after kissing the icon and offering a prayer, the pilgrim climbs the opposite steps, exits through the window, and descends the exterior stairs — an act said to cure hearing difficulties.

Attempting this is quite a challenge. At six feet tall, I found it virtually impossible. The ledges at the top of each staircase are narrow, and manoeuvring through the window seems both awkward and risky. Nevertheless, I have seen old footage showing both children and adults performing this ritual with surprising ease. A return visit is called for.

Icons under the stairs

Reflections

Visiting the Ancient Monastery of Prophet Abhakum was an unforgettable experience — part exploration, part mystery, and part living tradition. Rhodes never ceases to amaze me with its hidden treasures and this humble chapel holds a rare charm — a tangible link between legend, devotion, and the enduring beauty of the island’s landscape.

It was an honour to visit, and a place I would gladly return to again.

References

Directions

  • Due to the distance from any form of civilisation this is best approached using a car, then walking the off-road section at the end.
    • 1. From the village of Monolithos, follow the signs for the castle.
    • 2. Once out of the village take the road on the right by a viewing point of the coast, where there is a stall selling local products.
    • 3. Continue along this narrow road for 5.3km until you come to a track on the left where a weather worn sign that states ΠΡΟΦΉΤΗΣ ΑΒΒΑΚΟΎΜ.
    • 4. Walk down the track, through the forest for about 1km. A gate across the track has a knotted rope to keep this closed. Undo the knot and open the gate. Retie once through
    • 5. A large and wild grass area lies ahead. Kep to the track that follows the perimeter, with the forest to your right.
    • 6. After 0.5km, the track turns into the forest.
    • 7. Within 200m the chapel can be seen straight ahead
    • 11. Return is to follow the way you came

    Summary of Document Changes

    Last Updated: 2025-11-03

    2025-11-03 : Initial publication
    Location: 5Q82+G2 Ataviros, Greece

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