Eleousa to Archipoli Circular Walk
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Wednesday, 19 November 2025
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Circular walk between Eleousa and Archipoli
Circular walk between Eleousa and Archipoli
A 10 km (6.2 mile) walk taking in the scenery and exploring the tracks between Eleousa and Archipoli. This area of Rhodes is not too rugged and there are no steep climbs or challenging paths. It makes for a pleasant ramble and in addition the chance to explore the haunting village of Eleousa and the contrasting delights of Archipoli.
Circular walk between Eleousa and Archipoli - Essential Information
Walk Statistics (calculated from GPX):
- Start location: Eleousa
- Distance: km ( miles)
- Total Gain: metre ( ft)
- Total Descent: metre ( ft)
- Min Height: metre ( ft)
- Max Height: metre ( ft)
- Walk Time:
- Walk Grade: Easy
- Terrain: track and road
Maps:
The following maps and services can assist in navigating this route. There are links to printed maps and links to downloadable GPX route data for importing into navigational software and apps.
- GPX Route File
Route Verification Details
- Date of Walk: 05/10/2025
- Walk Time: 10:00:00 to 13:30:00
- Walkers: Griff, Kat
- Weather Conditions: Warm, blue skies with some cloud
Walk Notes
Introduction
There was an ulterior motive for undertaking this walk other than to experience the magical rural area between the two villages. Over the many years of visiting the island and exploring on foot, in 2024 we realized that some of those walks had formed a continuous path from Pefkos on the East coast to Kalavada Beach on the West coast, a coast to coast route going through the mountainous heart of the island. We had completed the continuous path apart from one small section. Archipoli to Eleousa. The missing link. This was mainly due to the lack of public transport to access either of the two villages, and now it became a challenge to complete that coast to coast route.
In the Autumn of 2025, when staying in Apollona, we hired a car, planned out a circular walk to navigate between the two villages and made this one of our top priorities to undertake during our stay.
First up, we must entice you, the reader, to this central area of Rhodes, with what you can expect when visiting both Eleousa and Archipoli. Many tourists will have passed through Eleousa on excursions or day trips and many stop off to take a look at its dilapidated and ruinous buildings, but it is worth taking time out to explore and to understand its history. So let us begin...
Eleousa: A Forgotten Italian Village Frozen in Time
Hidden in the lush, forested heart of Rhodes, the village of Eleousa offers one of the island’s most intriguing and unexpected journeys into the past. Established in the 1930s during the Italian occupation of Rhodes, Eleousa — originally named Campochiaro, meaning a clear or bright field — was designed as a model settlement for Italian foresters brought from northern Italy to manage the surrounding forests covering the hillside around the second largest peak on the island, Profitis Ilias. Its elegant architecture, a central square formed by an avenue of tree lined parallel roads, and imposing public buildings still stand today, though many now lie silent and abandoned. Walking through the village feels like stepping into a forgotten film set, where time has paused but the stories linger in the decaying walls. Stopping and taking in the silence during a quiet afternoon with no birdsong and no traffic only seems to confirm that somehow you have inadvertently stepped into the past. An eerie and haunting feeling that you are trespassing within a different time.
One of the most striking remnants of this era is the abandoned sanatorium which stands at the opposite end of the avenue to the church. This once grand two-storey building was built by the Italians as the village school. Soon after the war, in 1947, it was converted by the Greek state into the Queen Frederica Tuberculosis Sanatorium which operated until 1970. Visitors can wander up the steps to the front of the building where a forgotten fountain stands forlorn, where water has not issued for many decades. Pass through its open abandoned doors taking in the haunting beauty, the uncared for flaking paint that covers the walls, the cracked corridors, and the sense of solitude that seems to flow all around the square. This was the place where those with tuberculosis arrived from every corner of the island, and even further afield, so that they could be isolated from those who were still healthy. Very few patients managed to leave the village alive, while most breathed their last there. This gives it a very sombre air about it.
The remains of the Italian market (Agora) buildings that once echoed with the bustle of village life, run the length of the avenue between the Sanatorium and the Church. This once resplendent building is now no more than a series of crumbling graceful arches and symmetrical façades, making it a favourite subject for photographers and urban-exploration enthusiasts. An eerie stillness creeps about it, with a haunting, and somewhat unsettling, presence. All it takes is an unexpected tourist to emerge from its confines to make the heart skip a beat. Inside are once elegant tiled floors and fireplaces, painted walls, now with plaster falling and graffiti daubed unceremoniously to proclaim a passing ego. Stairways lead to the upper floors and the brave may let caution fly to the wind and venture up them.
On the opposite side of the square a similar structure to the market building stands with matching arches but lacking the lavish balconies. This was originally an Italian prison. This was converted after the Italian occupation to a high school but this too is no longer in use albeit a whole lot better maintained than the rest of the buildings. The end of this structure is still in use as the fire station.
At the head of the avenue stands the village church, originally built as Our Lady of Sorrows for the Italian Catholic community and later consecrated as the Greek Orthodox Church of Saint Charalambos. The contrast between Italian design and Greek religious tradition makes this imposing church a symbol of the layered history that defines Eleousa today. The symmetric frontage has steps leading up to the main entrance, above which there is an icon of Saint Charalambos, the 2nd-century Christian martyr. The structure is crowned with a five bell horizontal tower that makes a contrasting view from the decay around the rest of the square.
A short walk from the square brings you to one of Eleousa’s most charming surprises: a circular stone cistern, built by the Italians to collect water from the Koskinisti spring. In the centre is an ornate stone carved fountain. These days the waters just tumble over the edge of its bowl but once apon the time it would have thrust jets of water in the air. Nonetheless the sound of slow tumbling water creates a calming ambience. The pond is shaded by plane trees and home to the Gizáni, a tiny freshwater fish found only on Rhodes. Watching them dart in the shallow water offers a gentle moment of connection with the island’s natural heritage, and the spot is wonderfully peaceful — the kind of place where visitors linger longer than they expect.
Beyond the pond, following the Profitis Illias road around a sharp bend as it curves around the contours of a steep hillside, is the Monastery of Panagia Eleousa, after which the modern village was named. A courtyard sits below the road and is set within the surrounding trees on the steep hillside. This small area contains a humble chapel with an adjacent three storey bell tower. This is said to date back to to the late 18th century but could be even older.
Beyond its abandoned architecture, Eleousa is wrapped in nature. Towering pines and cool mountain air make the area ideal for leisurely walks. Despite the village’s quiet, there is life here: local families gather on weekends for traditional meze at the small tavernas below the main square, and a handful of residents maintain houses on the edges of the settlement. It is a place where the line between past and present blurs beautifully.
Archipoli: A Living Village Where Tradition Breathes
Archipoli, is a village that offers a striking contrast. Where Eleousa is atmospheric and still, Archipoli is quietly vibrant — full of life, colour, and rural charm. Nestled among olive groves and pine forests, the village has been inhabited since ancient times and carries a strong sense of continuity.
Begin your visit in Archipoli’s central square, where locals sip coffee beneath plane trees and welcome visitors with the warmth and ease that defines Greek village life. From here, wandering through the narrow streets feels like slipping into a timeless rhythm: stone houses with flower-draped balconies, the gentle sound of church bells, and the scent of wild herbs drifting from the surrounding hills.
The village’s spiritual heart lies in its church of St. Dimitrios, with its soft tones and traditional design that incorporates a separate five storey bell tower that reaches for the skies. The church is probably 19th century and is integrated tightly into the community and its tight knit houses.
Archipoli offers a different kind of beauty than Eleousa: a beauty that lives in the everyday, in the slow pulse of village life, and in the hospitality that greets every traveller who stops to linger. Together, these villages tell two sides of the island’s story — one quiet and abandoned, the other alive and flourishing.
The Walk - A Travelogue of the Day
A quiet Sunday drive saw us arrive at Eleousa when the church was emptying of its congregation. There is always plenty of space to park around the square, even on such a busy Sunday. Eleousa was not a new village to us; we have explored this haunting village on more than a couple of occasions in the past, with its intrigue always pulling us back. We had experienced its eerie feelings; we had cautiously entered its forlorn buildings. We had been startled by tourists emerging from the dark shadows like ghosts. On the initial visit, it felt as if we had stepped foot, uninvited, into some forbidden past, and were trespassing on hidden secrets and past memories. Today, it was welcoming, with the churchgoers cheerful and the hubbub of quiet conversation; there was an air of peace about the village.
From the square, we sauntered off following the predefined trail that was mapped onto our navigation app. This led us along the residential road northwards out of the village, the scenery somewhat blatantly contrasted with the square, trees and modern properties provided that 'lived-in' feeling, and all was orderly and well with the world. People were about. A 'Kalimera' greeting from the faces in the houses and in the gardens. Outside of one of these residences, a small dog watched from the middle of the road as we approached. No barking, just curiosity as we passed. His feet pattered on the ground around us, and for a few brief metres he tagged along behind us, just happy, I guess, to have company. Then he dropped behind. We continued on up the road that increasingly meandered through more rural surroundings. The dog passed us again, soon to find something to investigate at the side of the road. On we paced past the dog.
We were now in full countryside. Trees on either side of the road as it twisted its way onward. The patter of tiny dog paws came from behind. The little dog passed by us once again. There was no pestering. He casually walked as if he had decided that we were his walking friends for the day. This was getting a little concerning as he was getting some distance away from his house. We stopped and offered him a few words of advice, in English and broken Greek, to return back the way he came. He wasn't bothered. We walked on and he followed.
The sound of tiny paws abated, and we were left with the serenity of the countryside. An olive grove stretched out on the level ground to the right side of the lane. On the left were trees and sneaky views between them of the landscape. Ahead the hills were bigger, mountainous almost. Above, the sky was blue, peppered with fluffy white clouds, limiting the heat to the day, so it was warm but not overpowering. Behind us, the little dog had stopped but then trotted back towards us.
The asphalt ended and the lane continued ahead as a dirt track up into the hills. At this point we needed to take a right turn onto another track. In the air we could hear the rumble of engines. The little dog was now setting the lead. A few minutes later a pack of motorcyclists came into sight, cautiously coming down the dirt track. As each one dropped down onto the asphalt, the pace and confidence of the road increased their speed slightly as they headed towards Eleousa. With the last one, the little dog turned about and hurried after them, breaking out into a full run. He had found new biker friends.
The track twisted and turned, and in the distance, the wind turbines that line the peak of the hills behind Archipoli gave a landmark as to the direction we were heading. Many tracks led off along this route and I had to keep a regular track on the navigation app to make sure we chose the correct path. At one point we missed a turn and had to backtrack half a mile to get back onto the route. This is all the fun of the exploring. It is beautiful countryside. Lush with growth. Lots of trees, a few olive groves and the ubiquitous herbs that permeate every dirt track and footpath throughout Rhodes. A pickup truck headed into one of the groves, and a cheery 'Kalimera' is exchanged between us and the driver. We stood for a few minutes. There was the distinct silence of no tiny paws on gravel, no sign of any doggy catching us up.
The olive groves started to become more frequent, signalling that we were close to Archipoli. The going was easy. There were no substantial gradients and the tracks were all well defined. Then signs of civilisation started appearing and the dirt track turned to an old piece of asphalt full of cracks and well worn, almost decaying into the landscape. The village could be seen ahead, its white buildings hugging up against the forested hillside as we wandered with all the time in the world down the to the main road.
Opposite the junction was the Archipoli Kiosk, a roadside stall that sells a plethora of locally produced products: honey, olives, herbs, beeswax, flowers, fruit, and much more. Next to this was an animal nursery that had a pen of young orphaned deer, a whole clutch of cute little fawn faces. These seemed very tame, and the stall holder provided us with bread treats to feed the deer, who allowed us to place each piece of bread into their mouths. They were so gentle and not at all afraid.
With the deer petting done and after purchasing a bag of chillied olives we headed into the village. This is not far and crosses the river bridge, where a little water flowed in its lush, reed-filled depths, bolstered by the recent rains of the last few days. This is the Loutanis river, which springs from close to Eleousa and forms the stream that accompanies the main road past Seven Springs and all the way down to Kolimbia, where it flows into the sea.
Heading up the hill from the river, we come to the heart of the village. There is no formal square, just a couple of tavernas alongside the road which appear to be the focus of the village, where local people meet, drink coffee, and while away their time chatting. Behind is the church of Agios Dimitris. We have visited it before, but that is no reason not to visit it again and pay homage for our travels. Then it is time to sit down, choosing, as is our custom, Mimis Restaurant Cafe Bar where we order cold frappes and water and have a long deserved break, whilst watching the village life pass us by.
After wandering around the village taking in the sights, it was time to head back to Eleousa, this time following a trail through the countryside on the opposite side of the main road. This was a little more adventurous as I had no map reference for the tracks and had put the route together using satellite images, which from experience I know that it is difficult to determine between a track and a stream bed, and both are sometimes hidden in forested areas. Nonetheless, we set forth and headed down to the river where a track led us through some waste ground and past a few houses. The first challenge was a ford across the river. Considering there was flowing water when viewed from the bridge, this point just upriver seemed barely running, and the concrete ford was simple to plod through without having to use the stepping stones at the side.
The route follows the course of the river, diagonally crossing back again before another ford leads directly across. Beyond this was a little confusing as the route indicated immediate left turn, and following this we wandered into a small open area full of beehives. The track we needed was a little further along. This is customary when navigating using satellite images; it quite often requires much more interrogation of the tracks and paths available. The idea is to take your time, assess, and respond with the most likely way ahead. Sometimes it works, sometimes you have to turn back.
The track continues to follow the course of the stream. This now became a simple route to follow with little to misguide us. At one point a gully in the track had filled with rainwater which had subsequently been made into a quagmire of sloppy mud by vehicles, with little room to pass either side on firm ground. Once again, assess, investigate, and choose the best option. It was slippery and the boots did end up a little muddy, but we got past this obstacle.
Things got better after this. The trail started to climb, bending around the hillsides with the views becoming more panoramic as we went. At one point a pickup truck headed towards us and parked up on a bend; two chaps alighted with rifles—obviously hunters. They offered the traditional 'Kalimera', and we passed on our separate ways.
Eventually the track emerges by the road into Eleousa. We amble down the road for a brief distance before taking a track to come into the back of Eleousa. There are numerous ruins of old houses up here. This is the case all along this side of the hills close to Eleousa and something I will research when documenting another walk that passed this way. My guess is they were for the Italian population that came with the construction of Eleousa.
All in all, this was a lovely little walk and recommended for all abilities, although I would urge anyone who follows this route to use a navigation app. The route supplied here is now validated by this walk and should be easy to use to follow the right paths.
References
The following sources were referenced in the construction of this article:
Directions
Note: the route from Eleousa to Archipoli has many different tracks that can be confusing when relying solely on these written instructions. The best method to navigate this is to use a GPX enabled device or mobile app an download the GPX file from this page.
Navigate to Eleousa by car - this can be reached from the East Coast Highway, by taking the turn at Kolimbia for Seven Springs (Epta Piges) and continuing through Archipoli to Eleousa. The central square in Eleousa offers plenty of parking space.
- Head towards the old sanatorium at the opposite end of the square to the church and take the road on the left that leads down the side of this building.
- Where the road turns sharp left, proceed straight ahead and cross directly over the road at the bottom to continue on a residential road where trees line the left side of the road.
- Continue for 650 m along this road until it turns to a dirt track. At this point take the dirt track that leads off on the right.
- Continue along the track ignoring all other tracks that lead off from this. After 1 km you reach a junction, turn right
- After a further 125 m take the track on the right that forks with the track you are currently on, seemingly turning back on oneself.
- After 150 m bear right and ignore the two tracks that lead off on the left.
- Keep to the track for 0.8 km until it reaches a junction. Turn right.
- After 80 m bear left.
- After 0.5 km bear right then almost immediately after bear left at the next junction.
- After 0.6 km you will reach the main road. Turn left.
- The road will turn sharp right and cross the river, then bears round to the left and up to the hub of the village.
Return to Eleousa. CAUTION: There are two fords to cross. After heavy rains these may be impassable.
- Return the way you came down to the river bridge. As the road bends towards the river bridge, there is a road leading off on the left. Take this.
- After 350 m, at the junction turn right.
- A track leads down to a ford across the river. Soon after, bear around to the left ignoring the road on the right.
- After 330 m where the track meanders back acros the riverbed then bends around to the right with another track that leads straight on. Continue around the bend and cross another ford.
- Immediately after the ford there is a small area on the left with beehives, then a very short distance onwards is a track leading off to the left. Take this.
- After 400 m keep straight ahead, avoid the fork to the left.
- The track will eventually start climbing into the hills with twists and turns. Keep to this main track and after 3km it will reach the road.
- Turn right onto the road and after 140 m turn left up a short steep track which then curves around to meet another track
- Turn right and follow this for 215 m where the track forks, take the right hand fork.
- The track curves round and eventually emerges onto the road by the circular pond. Turn right to follow the road around the pond which then continues up to Eleousa village square and the starting point
Summary of Document Changes
Last Updated: 2025-11-19
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